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Johnny Cat 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 5,866
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 6, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Me milking the feet on the first part of this stel...


This classic splitter finger crack is a must do if you're up to the challenge. The route starts by climbing about 10' of overhanging jugs and then its fingers the rest of the way. The lower portion of the crack is not too bad with good feet here and there to a good rest. From the rest place a couple pieces as high as you can and fight through the crux to the chains.


This route is located about 100' right of "King Cat", just look for the obvious chalked up splitter.


One yellow alien at the start and the rest is .5 Camalots and or red aliens.

Photos of Johnny Cat Slideshow Add Photo
Toby on Johnny Cat
Toby on Johnny Cat
Johnny Cat, 2001.
Johnny Cat, 2001.
Chris Archer on Johnny Cat
Chris Archer on Johnny Cat
Knee deep in the business...
Knee deep in the business...
Attempting to figure out how to climb .5 camalot size cracks
Attempting to figure out how to climb .5 camalot s...
Comments on Johnny Cat Add Comment
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By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2007

This is another one to jump on if you have big fingers. For me this is THE dream finger crack, and one of the funnest routes I've ever done. Probably 10+ or 11- if you get locks all the way to the anchors.

By andy patterson
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2007

... if your fingers ARE the right size. If not, then this route epitomizes frustration, for the crux has no feet whatsoever and it's well nigh impossible to lie-back the crack. Or maybe I'm just being pessimistic. I did, however, lose a lot of skin on this line, so you'll pardon my attitude.

Next time...

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 19, 2007

yeah, for smaller-fingered folks, this is one of the toughest sizes to master. For me, the crux of this climb is much harder and less secure than many .12s such as Swedin Ringle or even Slice'n'Dice.

By Tevis Blom
Oct 14, 2007

managed to hangdog and leapfrog cams while doing the moves on this one. the jams were tight as hell for me! Definitely fun for the large handed.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 28, 2010

Wished I had a couple of stoppers for the lower bands leading to the crack. A fall from the rounded smooth holds would be ugly as I nearly found out. My fingers were a tad too small for the final 10 feet to the anchors but cams make good hand holds.

By Aeon Aki
Nov 28, 2011

+1 to 1Eric Rhicard. Sounds like we both used the same beta.

By greg t
Aug 12, 2012

great route! was glad to just happen to have a set of stoppers for the start (sometimes sandy). Relativity easy climbing, but the fall would be ugly. the rest of the climb is great, and fairly tame until the feet disappear for 10ft before the anchors. For those lacking sausage fingers, learn how to stack fingers and gun to the anchors. big clean falls on solid gear, love the creek.