Johnny B. Good 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Gary Drexler, Tim Powers - 2004 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on May 2, 2008 |
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Moving out the bulge near the route's end.
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Description A bulging start mixed with a high class technical slab and gymnastic moves out a steep roof makes for one of the finer routes at the Gallery.
The route begins with an "in your face" bulging boulder problem that gains you access to the meat of the climb.
Finesse your way up the incredibly fun thin slab using body weight opposition, high steps, and keen route finding skills.
Rest below the massive roof, then monkey your way out the bulging roof, making some fun and well protected throws to massive huecos and flakes. Finish up pockets and one last hard move to the arete out right.
Location The route immediately to the left of "27 Years of Climbing" that breaks the large roof looming above.
Protection 9 bolts plus chain anchors.
The slab below the roof.
Photo by, Liam Griffin
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Steeeeeep upper section
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Almost there!
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| Comments on Johnny B. Good |
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a
| After the first couple of moves, this climb eases off to the 5.7-5.8 range to the head wall. That said, dont underestimate the upper section- it be burly! |
By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Nov 30, 2010
| Only hard part is the steep section up top. Great choice for your first 5.11. Clipping the anchors seemed like the crux because of the pump and the holds aren't huge (like the rest of the route). |
By S. Neoh
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| +1 about being a good choice for the inspiring 5.11 climber. A decent hold down and to the left of the anchors should make clipping the chains not the crux (assuming one is not pumped out by then). |
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