John Waynes Knee  5.12d

129 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  MattL on Apr 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: On the send.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>> The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route lies on the right hand side of the main concentration of routes at Mad Cow wall. A somewhat neglected route, but just as classic as neighboring routes Rawhide and Chuckwagon IMO (and a tad bit harder). Rock quality is generally good, aside from some crumbly bits at the 3rd bolt rest.

Make your way past the first two bolts using thin holds and a good mono on easier terrain. Cruise to the big scoop at the third bolt, and rest as the name implies. Grab some jugs, and deadpoint/dyno to another good jug. Two options (and possibly more) exist for the crux at hand: 1. Grab a nasty (small and slopey) left handed gaston and thrutch for a good edge, or alternatively 2. skip the gaston and dyno for the good edge. Don't relax yet - 2 more bolts of pumpy sequential climbing stand between you and the chains.

Location 

Just right of Rawhide about 15 feet.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor - all fixed draws