Mountain Project: Climbing Taos Area

There are now five climbing walls to pick from in relative proximity to this access to the Rio Grande. Lumped together as being by the boat put-in for the Taos Box, the oldest and most easily approached is John's Wall. Right off the road on the Hondo Creek. Above this roadside crag follow a climber's trail up to The New New Buffalo. Back up Hondo Creek on the same north rim, the Solar Asylum has the stiffest overhanging sport routes. One of the best single track rides in the Taos (Horsetheif trail) goes right by the top of this crag (see directions for alternate approach to top of crag). Just upstream from the John Dunn Bridge on the east side of the Rio Grande, the River Wall has steep sport routes on the wall directly across from the Taos Box Put-in. If you cross the John Dunn Bridge and park at the put-in you can access the Old Stagecoach Road and some moderate sport mixed with easy, short trad. These are the easiest toprope choices.

Continue on the main road to the west to Miner's Crag, and a host of sport and trad routes on a wild landscape.

The BLM just installed two new long-drops to accommodate your post-caffeinated gastro-colic reflex. Please use these john's at John's.

This area represents the only drivable access to a Rio Grande River-level crossing for miles and has been a historic western access trail for Taos and it's natives for centuries. From stagecoaches headed to Flagstaff or old John Dunn's Model T Ford bouncing out to meet the Chile Line at Tres Piedras, this is the way you went on wheels until the Gorge Bridge was completed in 1968. The Pueblo Indians and others also left their mark as is evidenced by petroglyphs lining the Hondo creek and the Rio Grande. Further downstream is the the old Manby Hotsprings stage road, bridge and ferry crossing. Manby lost his head over his land grabbing deals and lost the bridge in a flood.
The famed New Buffalo Commune was just up Hondo Canyon, "Easy Rider" was inspired by this and the likes of the Hog Farm Commune, Ram Dass, Ken Kesey, and others who explored the counter-culture in the 60's.

www.johndunnshops.com/TheStory.html
www.amazon.com/Possess-Land-Biography-Arthur-Rochford/dp/080>>>

Getting There

From Taos, go north on highway 522 to Arroyo Hondo about 10 miles. Turn left at Arroyo Hondo. Follow dirt road about 2 miles, bearing right at fork. Almost down at the Rio Grande River, a small basalt roadside wall appears on right just after bridge over the Rio Hondo. There are about 20 routes. There are hot springs about 1/4 mile downstream on the western bank of the Rio Grande. To enjoy the Black Rock Spring, turn Left after the bridge and drive up this road to park at the first turn. Follow a faint trail downstream. The Manby Springs were in "Easy Rider" but are a bit harder to get to. Bring a trashbag and do your part to keep it clean, favor.

Guide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.html

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for John Dunn Bridge Area:

Cactus Karma 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Old Stagecoach Road

The Houston S 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet John's Wall

Monkeywrenchin' Momma 5.10- Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Old Stagecoach Road

Pockets 5.10- Sport, 60 feet Old Stagecoach Road

Tradtex 5.10 Trad, 50 feet The New New Buffalo

Bulges 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet John's Wall

Po'Pay's Revolt 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Old Stagecoach Road

Piton Crack 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Old Stagecoach Road

The Prow 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Old Stagecoach Road

Vortex 5.11 Sport, 50 feet The New New Buffalo

Featured Route For John Dunn Bridge Area

Route 66 5.8 PG13 NM : Taos Area : ... : John's Wall

This corner is an obvious line on John's.A bouldery crux at the bottom is unprotected for about 15', or use a stick clip to clip the first bolt of Easter Rising. It looks like the holds are positive, but many are slopers. With a stickclip, this climb is well-protected with no unusual risk. If you don't want to clip the bolt, it's only another foot or two until the first good gear placement: a hand size cam.The left-facing dihedral above is fun stemming with good holds....[more] Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on John Dunn Bridge Area

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By Jfoley
Mar 8, 2009

This area is known as the John Dunn Bridge Area In Taos Rock (www.climbingschoolusa.com/) and John's Wall / River Wall in Rock Climbing NM.

These cliffs can be very pleasant in the winter months. John's Wall gets the sun late morning into the early afternoon. The Solar Asylum and New Buffalo Wall get morning shade in summer and sun in the afternoon when they receive the last rays of the evening. The River Wall has not seen much traffic in recent years and seems to have been taken over by the flora and fauna and has become very dusty in spots.

* Although they are higher up, and actually because of this,The Solar Asylum and New Buff Wall tend to stay quite a bit warmer during winter afternoons and cooler in summer mornings than the cliffs at the bottom of the canyon.**

By Jfoley
Jan 14, 2010

Hey mike, nice beta photo. The New Buff Wall is located between the Solar Asylum and John's wall. The trail goes up the left side of John's wall then diagonals up and right(east) to that center point(10 min walk and another 10 min. to reach The Asylum).This is the preferred access trail to The Asylum & New Buff if the mesa top access is muddy.The New Buff wall has over 12 short routes,5.9 to 5.12 sport & trad. I will try to post some soon.

*Also the road down into The Hondo Gorge is slick in winter and requires good tires and/or 4WD to get back out!!*

By Jonathan Slator
Aug 21, 2011

Mike, Couple of small points on your John's Wall notes. Easy Rider was not filmed at New Buffalo. As I heard it, when I first got to town in 1980, the production company requested to do so but the owner at the time, Rick Klein, declined.

Ken Kesey is spelt thus.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 22, 2011

Thanks Slate. The editor I have always hoped for. Cheers mate.

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John Dunn Bridge Area

Description

Getting There

The Classics