Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.
Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.
Browse More Classics in John Bryan State Park
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for John Bryan State Park:
Green 5.7 TR, 25 feet
Red 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Blue 5.7 OH : John Bryan State Park
Left side offers a bouldering start with some decent finger pockets to pull through the first ten feet. eases up for a juggy finish. Starting at the vertical crack directly below the right anchor, traverse slightly right to finish on right anchor, or traverse left to finish below left anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in OH