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John Bryan State Park
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John Bryan State Park 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben Bruestle on Jul 23, 2008

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Holly cranks Ohio

Description 

Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.


Getting There 

Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for John Bryan State Park:
Green   5.7     TR, 25 feet   
Red   5.8     TR, 1 pitch, 20 feet, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in John Bryan State Park

Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Blue Route, left side

Blue 5.7  OH : John Bryan State Park
Left side offers a bouldering start with some decent finger pockets to pull through the first ten feet. eases up for a juggy finish. Starting at the vertical crack directly below the right anchor, traverse slightly right to finish on right anchor, or traverse left to finish below left anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in OH


Photos of John Bryan State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Blue Route at John Bryan State Park

Blue Route at John Bryan State Park

Park Map

BETA PHOTO: Park Map