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Six designated climbing sites and one rappelling site are maintained in the park. 30-60 foot limestone cliffs along the Little Miami River gorge. Only toproping allowed. Huge painted eyebolts at the top of all routes denote the different sites. From west to east the sites are Red, Blue, Green, Pink, Black, Orange, and Yellow. Routes range from 5.3-5.12. No lead climbing or bouldering allowed. Each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern aspect. Pay camping in park.
Located near Yellow Springs and Clifton off I-70. Near Springfield go south on 72 and follow signs to John Bryan State Park. Once in the park, use the trailhead in the Wingo Picnic area to access the climbs along the North Rim Trail.
5 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for John Bryan State Park:
Red 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Featured Route For John Bryan State Park
Red 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c OH : John Bryan State Park
Good beginner route with easy anchor points. One slightly awkward move in the middle of the route which requires some balance. Watch your footing while belaying and have something to keep the rope off the ground....[more] Browse More Classics in OH