Joey's 5.9+
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Joey's taken from a distance.
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Description Joey's first half is quite easy but a bit run out to the second bolt. The hard moves start just above the third bolt. The first crux is thin hands and feet until you get hands over the small overhang. The second crux is getting your feet over the overhang.
Location Even though Joey's is technically on the upper tier, you reach it by walking left from the lower tier along a small trail through the bushes and angling up and over boulders after 75 feet or so. The cliff is only one tier at this end of the cliffs. The climb is easily recognized by a small clearing at the base of the only nice looking face with a small overhang near the top. A 60 meter rope just reaches the ground for rappelling. Otherwise you could walk left off the top and wind down and around the base back to the climb.
Protection The 6 bolts can be supplemented with additional gear in a couple places to ease nerves if need be. 2 bolt anchors for belaying on top.
Paul just reaching second bolt. 3rd and 4th bolts ...
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Paul just above the 3rd bolt getting ready for the...
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A short rest at the overhang before tackling the s...
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Sallie checking out the moves at the second crux.
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Mike Arechiga on, When Joey Comes Marching Home. 5...
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Oct 29, 2006
| Does anyone know what the climb is that goes up about 30' right of Joey's? The first bolt is about 15' up on a slab and then two more are up and left on the steeper rock (crux). A fourth bolt is found after the crux section and a fifth is up at the last short wall before the top. Additional trad gear protects the couple longer runouts. The climb is very good and on solid rock simulating a rock gym route to some extent with the steep sections having good holds that are horizontal to a bit sloping. I would think it goes at 5.9 or so... |
By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010
| great climb. can TR w/ 60m and extended anchor and avoid the crux 5.9, which makes it a really good long and fun 5.7 or so. |
By Gunkswest
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| RC.com has this listed as "When Joey Comes Marching Home." This is a very good route. As mentioned, a couple TCUs can be used to supplement the bolts. |
By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Sep 29, 2012
| I don't know what a legal firm has to do with anything, but this route is called "When Joey Comes Marching Home", it is 10b and a pretty good mixed pro lead. |
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