||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800', Grade III
|Consensus: ||WI3+ M3 [details]|
|FA: ||Joe Stettner as a summer route (5.6?) in 1936 though this solo ascent has been doubted by some|
|Season: ||Spring or Fall|
|Page Views: ||2,466|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Sheridan on Oct 1, 2008|
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The route Joe's Solo in lean (fun) but poorly bond...
Joe's Solo begins on Broadway and climbs a deep cleft between The The Eighth Route
and The Notch Couloir
Climb one pitch of easy, blocky, mixed terrain to reach the base of the more difficult climbing.
The next pitch is likely WI3 when fully formed, or well protected M4 when in leaner conditions. In leaner conditions, climb up to a small, left-facing corner in the middle of the cleft, pull a small ice bulge then traverse left across a slab covered with a thin layer of ice. A steep ramp with a thin coating of ice then leads up to thicker ice up a right-facing corner.
Beyond the crux pitch, climb easier terrain up and left to join The The Eighth Route
, or try your luck up the steep buttress above (5.7-5.8)
Thought the route has only a few good pitches, it can be combined with Alexander's Chimney
to make for a great outing.
The Route starts on Broadway, between The Eighth Route and The Notch Couloir. The descent to the Loft if probably the fastest way down, but rappelling into The Notch and continuing to the summit of Longs is also and option.
Protection varies with conditions, so use your best judgment. Pure ice sections are short and good rock pro can be found nearby, so only a few screws are necessary. 6 pins, cams to 3 inches, stoppers and a big #11 hex are useful in leaner conditions.
Chris Sheridan coming to grips with the idea of ba...