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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Abraxsis T WI5 M6 |
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Conditional Love WI5-6 M5 R |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 M2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Give'r the Berries T M5+ |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T AI1 Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 Mod. Snow |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Stettner as a summer route (5.6?) in 1936 though this solo ascent has been doubted by some |
| Page Views: | 4,367 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Oct 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Joe's Solo begins on Broadway and climbs a deep cleft between The The Eighth Route and The Notch Couloir.
Climb one pitch of easy, blocky, mixed terrain to reach the base of the more difficult climbing.
The next pitch is likely WI3 when fully formed, or well protected M4 when in leaner conditions. In leaner conditions, climb up to a small, left-facing corner in the middle of the cleft, pull a small ice bulge then traverse left across a slab covered with a thin layer of ice. A steep ramp with a thin coating of ice then leads up to thicker ice up a right-facing corner.
Beyond the crux pitch, climb easier terrain up and left to join The The Eighth Route, or try your luck up the steep buttress above (5.7-5.8)
Thought the route has only a few good pitches, it can be combined with Alexander's Chimney to make for a great outing.
Climb one pitch of easy, blocky, mixed terrain to reach the base of the more difficult climbing.
The next pitch is likely WI3 when fully formed, or well protected M4 when in leaner conditions. In leaner conditions, climb up to a small, left-facing corner in the middle of the cleft, pull a small ice bulge then traverse left across a slab covered with a thin layer of ice. A steep ramp with a thin coating of ice then leads up to thicker ice up a right-facing corner.
Beyond the crux pitch, climb easier terrain up and left to join The The Eighth Route, or try your luck up the steep buttress above (5.7-5.8)
Thought the route has only a few good pitches, it can be combined with Alexander's Chimney to make for a great outing.
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