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Don't be fooled by Pixie Corner's chill routes, because Joe's is pretty stout for a 5.9. It can be tricky to place gear in the left to right angling crack, and the top out is very committing.
Joe's feels harder, or at least more awkward, than Penny Lane.
Joe's Crack is on the right facing wall of the farthest-left dihedral in Pixie Corner. It angles from left to right, then goes straight up into the trees. You can't miss it.
Walk up and right to top of cliff, and follow path to stairs and the base of the dihedrals.
Cams to 2 inches. No fixed gear, but there is a big strong fir at the top of the climb, so bring a cordalette or long runners to reach the tree and keep your rope off the rock if top roping.
A classic Smoke Bluffs rounded top-out.
The exciting rounded top-out of Joe's Crack.
Mike nearing the ledge below the top-out. The wal...
Mike fighting through the crux of Joe's crack. Th...
Mike shortly before an impressive beached-whale im...
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 26, 2008
sweet sloping bouldery mantle up top ohh ya
From: Bend, OR
Aug 29, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I too thought the route was a bit difficult for the grade but still VERY fun. I messed up on the finish and instead ran it out to connect it with "The Locker" finish. Adds some length to the climb, minimal rope drag, and you get bolts to TR from.
|By Sean H|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012
This turned out to climb more awkard than it looked.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The topout gives the route its grade, I think. Honest 5.9. The crack was straight-forward with lots of rests.
Also, there are bolts at the top now with quicklinks attached.