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 ADVANCED
(04) Benny Silva Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Blobs of Love S,TR 
Fetus Envy T 
From CZ With Love S,TR 
Joe's Crack T,TR 
Rapture S,TR 
Razors from Heaven S,TR 

Joe's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Joe
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007

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Description 

One of the nicer cracks at Mentmore. This can be climbed almost entirely as a face climb, but it'll be a lot easier and more enjoyable (esp. the bottom) if you have basic hand-jamming skills. Can be toproped, but the crack traverses generally left, so you might want to put in a directional piece if toproping with inexperienced climbers. Finally, WATCH OUT for a large whitish block jammed in the very top of the crack. It seems pretty solidly wedged, but you never know...


Location 

Obvious handcrack splitting the Benny Silva Wall.


Protection 

Trad gear all the way. Crack pinches down as it goes higher, so a few cams from 1-3 inches oughta do ya. There is a bolted anchor at the top.



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By morrison
Nov 13, 2008

great climb, fun lead, solid jams the whole way up. Bring extra slings, the anchor bolts are really far apart. If you set up a top rope, there is a little variation you can do to the left of the crack, right underneath the anchor, its a hard 9 face climb that mellows out after 15 feet or so, sick moves