Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Gibson, Chris Willis - date unknown |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Nov 27, 2006 |
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photo: krystal
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Description The signature tough sport climb at Leda, Jody's Route has an interesting background. According to local climbers, Jody Evans had his eye on this line and planned to do the first ascent, but never got around to it. Instead, the two Chrises (Gibson and Willis) bolted it ground up on lead. So Leda old-timers call it The Chris' Route (plural, not possessive). Most people who climb here, however, don't know this obscure history, so Jody's Route it is.
This excellent and aesthetic route has a tough, bouldery start, so stick-clipping is wise. Power through the start and past the first bolt, then up the steep face to a reachy crux. Passing this, the climb ends with some fun roof moves, which are pumpy but actually not quite as hard as the rest of the route.
Location Starts near the far left end of the crag, just right of the Good and Plenty corner crack.
Protection Six bolts, bolted anchors.
| Comments on Jody's Route (aka The Chris' Route) |
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By 426
Mar 14, 2007
| Great route, one of the best of Leda... |
By jdmatt
Oct 3, 2009
| super fun route. the pump factor leads to the rating with the roof finish. most moves are 10a/b with a rather tough start. |
By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| There are several start variations from the looks of things, each offering a slightly different approach to the first bolt.
Stick clip the first bolt to instill some confidence for the low crux. Take advantage of a great rest and continue up the ledges into an awesome undercling move with a high foot. Top out straight up to avoid blowing on the spinning bolt. |
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