Jodonna  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Bill Boyle Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Mar 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Andy Knight starting the crux section on Jodonna.

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Description 

One line, four distinct sections. Some wonderfully enjoyable movement, along with a bit of thought required here and there.

A tough, overhanging start on sharp, somewhat painful holds through three bolts, followed by a much easier section through some looser, lower-angle choss (but good, solid holds exist—you've just got to look for them).

As the choss eases up, a gently overhanging crux section on tan-colored rock looms above with some big moves from small crimps, some slopey bits, a few welcome jugs, and some desperate movement near the top of the section.

Capping the overhanging bit is an awkward, ending roof that feels a bit desperate as you gun for the chains on holds a tad less positive than you'd like.

Location 

The first bolted line as you head up the ramp to the left of the Bad Bananas "cave."

Protection 

14 bolts, chain anchors. Some longer draws here and there, and a two-foot sling on the fifth bolt will help with rope drag.

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Andy Knight at the awkward, finishing roof of ...