This small granite dome and the boulders scattered at its base offer sport & trad climbing as well as bouldering. Sitting behind a store and a hotel just off the road, this mountain was a ski area in the 1930's. The boulders sit in the shade of the trees while the dome itself is in full sun. The area is more frequented by families out hiking than hardcore climbers, but the quality granite, albeit limited, is worth the visit.
IME in North Conway has a mini guide as well as Dr Topo.
Jockey Cap is located in the town of Fryeburg on Rt 302. From the intersection of Routes 113 and 302 the trailhead is 1 mile. Access the trail between the Jockey Cap Country Store and the Jockey Cap Motel. The approach is about 3 mins.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Jockey Cap:
Start on the Mako Roof, but after clipping the natural thread and first bolt go directly out the horizontal roof to a lip encounter boulder problem crux....[more]Browse More Classics in ME
We went out to see this place because I'd heard some good things.
Basically, the mosquitos drove us off in 10 minutes. They are worse than Alaska(at least on 7/28/09).
There look to be some cool boulders and some hard sport, but, IMHO, it is not worth the stop considering that cathederal and whitehorse are 30 minutes away.
**EDIT-UPDATE***
I went back a couple days this summer and mosquitos were much better, so I think it is hit or miss.
I found the moderate trad cragging, which looks fun. I didn't get that far the first visit before dropping of blood loss.
I'll definetly soften my criticism, but still don't really see myself stopping here unless I've climb so much out near Conway that I'm getting sick of it. I guess it just depends on your agenda.
I would whole-heartedly disagree with the sentiments of the op. This area is interesting and well worth the super short approach.
There are three main boulders that are easily accessed. Dr. Topo has a perfect guide that is easily understood and highly accurate. Each of the three boulders houses about 10-15 problems; a couple of which would be considered mega classics. A great area to bring beginners as well as intermediate V2-3 climbers.
I have yet to undertake any of the 5.6-9 trad climbs or the significantly more difficult sport routes. I plan to return this Saturday for some sport climbing and lead cragging, hopefully I'll be able to comment on the non-bouldering aspects of Jockey's Cap then.
As for mosquitos, you basically shouldn't be outside in ME between June and September. That being said, this is an interesting spot with a full afternoon's worth of climbing that might provide the perfect change of pace from Cathedral and White Horse.
As of 5/1/2013 the sport climb all the way to the right on the main wall has only one hanger without a rappel ring over the edge and no anchor above it which makes for very difficult cleaning of draws on the route. For clarity, this is NOT the sport climb way around the right end's corner.
For maybe twenty feet of climbing though; with large moves, positive holds, exciting heel hooks and a mantel top out, the route was definitely worth it. Felt easier than the grade in the "North Conway Rock Climbs" guidebook, but it is also my style of climbing, so who knows!
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