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Job Review 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright, ABS, Thomas A. McFarlane, Feb. 1995
Page Views: 1,627
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 18, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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ABS at the roof crux.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first fully bolted route completed on The Highlander crag, Job Review ascends the large grey plate that is left of the sprawling ledge system used for the "Peer" routes.

What a treat to be able to credit one these first ascents to Dr. Tom McFarlane. A long time guide from Estes Park, and an accomplished trad climber, Tom had to suck a lot of wind to watch me drill holes in the rock. I had the opportunity to climb for a full year with Tom before seeing him off to medical school and a brilliant career as a family clinician.

Job Review is the right of two long routes in this sector, one that he and I started and ABS and I finished. Shuffle up on easy terrain and half a dozen or fewer clips to a spot just below a small roof. Get a clip, move a bit right for a second clip, and swing out left to negotiate the roof. A friction crux on small feet, the roof is completed by padding back right to stand just above the last clip. It has cool moves that I always thought were 5.10 but are better imagined as 5.11a. This is bit reachy, and it helps to have a ridiculous ape index. A slew of clips and close to 80 more feet of friction climbing through seams and water channels gains the anchors.

This route is a gas by any measure and worth all of the two stars that I'll give it here.

Protection 

QDs only. This 135 foot route needs 13 - 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Don't even contemplate doing Job Review or its neighbor, Get A Job, without double ropes. There is no mid point anchor.


Photos of Job Review Slideshow Add Photo
ABS launches Job Review.
ABS launches Job Review.
ABS at the 5.11 crux.
ABS at the 5.11 crux.
ABS at the top.
ABS at the top.

Comments on Job Review Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 3, 2013
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

This is stiff for 11a. 5'10" +2" ape and can't reach it. Perhaps a slabmaster....
By Bill Wright
Mar 11, 2002

I just did this route yesterday and it is indeed quite fun, though I disagree with the friction crux or even friction climbing. This is a face climb with varied and cool moves.

There are only 3 clips on the easy terrain leading up to the roof. I found moving left at the roof the toughest part because it was hard for me to figure out and a big pumpy here. I solved it with an iron cross in order to move my feet left. Here, you do need some good friction for your feet, but this isn't considered the crux (according to the guidebook).

The next section is the crux and involves a huge, iron cross type reach from an undercling (with the left hand) to a small edge. This is a big reach, but I'm only 5'11" and don't think I have much of an ape index (if positive at all). Without reaching this hold, I'd think the grade would be MUCH harder.

Further up the climbing isn't all that friction oriented - at least if you've climbed slabs in Yosemite. If you have climbed real friction, then this is just a face climb. There is a hard section further up (mid to upper 5.10, I'd guess) where you have to step up high on a good edge, but without seemingly out any holds.

A great, fun route that I would recommend highly if you are close to six feet tall. I've love to hear how a 5'6" person would do this route.
By Timmy Von
Aug 26, 2003

Well, I am 5'6 3/4", and this climb was a workout. The most difficult section was the face after the initial overhang. I had to move slightly left after the roof and back right to the next bolt. Fancy footwork and some smaller moves up the face kept it together. Great climb!
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Dec 6, 2004

I'm 5'11", 0" ape but got the move above the roof by sliding my left hand along the undercling until I got the best body position, not the most positive grip. Then I smeared the right foot up on a sloping dish. I released the undercling as I rocked over my right foot and put my left hand up on a non-descript face hold left of the bolt for balance while extending the right hand for the edge without stopping. This one's worth coming back to.
By Ken Heiser
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I really enjoyed getting on this climb on the lead this past weekend. I thought it had 3 distinct cruxes first getting into the stem in the hanging corner off the ledge after the easy climbing, then the undercling left after the stem and finally the face move above the roof. Each of these sections seemed about the same difficulty to me. I found getting the clip after standing up in the stem to be really precarious. The rest of the climb after the face move above the roof is just excellent steep face climbing, very sustained in the 9/10a range.I thought this was a super enjoyable aesthetic line with a good variety of moves with great air for a sport route.
By John Kelley
From: Sedona, AZ
Mar 21, 2005

Fun long route. Definitely recommended, well protected, interesting climbing.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 19, 2009

My partner's 70m rope easily reached from the anchors to the ground. In fact, there was probably two feet on the ground. Either his rope is cut really long or the route is not really 135' long.
By Dougald MacDonald
Nov 21, 2009

70m rope is perfect.
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Both this climb and its neighbor to the left are fun 5.10+ face climbing with one ridiculous reach each. I don't think either one is 5.11- if you are short. At 5'8", I found both to be much harder than other 11+ climbs in the area.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Dec 12, 2011

If you're careful, you can rap to the wide ledge, which leaves a reasonable downclimb to the east, on a 60m (knot the ends to be safe).
By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
Feb 3, 2013

Can you lower off a 70m off this or do you need to rap with double ropes?
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 3, 2013

See the comments above, a 70m is adequate.