Approach as for other climbs on Windy Peak, except after you gain the main terrace cut across the drainage low and cross to east side of the base of Windy Peak. Look for the awesome arch the climb ascends the right side and goes through the center. There is an exposed 4th class pitch of 150' to the base of the climb - although in a second attempt I led a direct line up to the base of the route and it went at 5.5. Pitch 1 (5.7) - ascend a nice crack to a roof, escape to the right and into an alcove to belay. Pitch 2 (5.9) - make tricky moves to gain the awesome arching dihedral to a two bolt hanging belay. Pitch 3 (5.8) - continue through the overhang at the notch and up the face.Pitch 4 - continue on easy terrain to gain the top of the formation. Descend to the east or rap off pitch 2 with 2 ropes. Slung a huge bolder at the top of the 4th class ramp and variation first pitch to gain the main ledge at the base of Windy Peak.
Standard rack up to #3.
Maurice Horn belaying at the top of the second pit...
Maurice Horn starting the second pitch, Joanne of ...
BETA PHOTO: One version of this line
We thought this looked fun ...
|By Greg Barnes|
Apr 10, 2006
We replaced 2 bolts at the 3-bolt anchor on top of pitch 2 in March 2006. The 3rd original bolt is still there, and pretty beat-up (we'll get back and pull it sooner or later).
Do NOT rap from pitch 3 - that roof is fully knife-edged, and truly dangerous. Either rap from pitch 2 or continue to the top.
Awesome corner, a great end-of-the day finish if you cruise one of the other routes earlier.
|By Andrew Carson|
From: Wilson, WY
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
We got full value on this route on a cold January day. Pro for the start of the third pitch is tricky to 'not there', and not that good till you are ready to turn the roof. The rap anchor at the top of the third pitch was one stopper, decent, and a knotted/jammed sling, pretty weathered. I'd want to beef it up substantially if I were to rap from that point. We continued for another pitch, then two more of 4th/easy 5th, trending east, then a bunch of scrambling after unroping, before we were on non-technical ground. It was more complex than we anticipated and with short January days we were slightly spooked, but all came out well. There were some cairns on the way down and the easy slopes visible to the east from the climb bring you right back to your packs.
If I did it again I think I'd go to the top once more, but with more gear I also wouldn't mind the rap from the third belay, watching where I laid the rope as I went down the roof.
|By Doug Hemken|
Jan 13, 2014
We continued on to the top of the E summit, then followed the cairns across the knife-edge W to the main summit.
Great day! The first 3 pitches are very nice, and we found two more pitches up higher by continuing straight up, ~ 5.8 - 5.10, depending on how you approached the final bulge.