Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Say S 
Crazy Train, The S 
Graffiti Patient S 
Grushenka S 
Its Right to be Frank S 
JJ Memorial S 
Left Be Frank S 
Little Red Rooster S 
Lowe Route, The S 
Pit, The S 
Pocket Full of Trundles S 
Precious, The S 
Something Must Break S 
Stop that Terrain S 
Way Hammered S 
Wicked Bender S 

JJ Memorial 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: SMR on Oct 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 


It looks like this one is missing from the line-up on MP.

This climb starts out of the pit on a large lay-backish hold. Requires burly pulling and a heel-toe gimmick may help in this section. After the roof section, the head wall has some smaller crimps/feet.

I thought Wicked Bender started on the Pit and then moved left to share anchors with Derailed, but my info could be wrong.

Location 

Starts on the left side of the pit

Protection 

Bolts/quick-draws


Comments on JJ Memorial Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

That might clear up some confusion here about grades. This start is much harder than Wicked Bender.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 10, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This route is named The JJ memorial- no "derailed" exists on this wall.

I spoke with the developer of this wall today. He informed me of some mis-information here on MP. This route is called The JJ memorial- It was named in honor of a friend who worked at a climbing gym in park city and died tragically. JJ loved climbing at the dry wall.

JJ Memorial is a more direct start that shares its left-trending finish with Wicked Bender.

The start is a tricky move (V6/5) that uses a high right-facing sidepull (good hold) above a sandstone shelf within the cave. Technical climbing, great sequences, and hard pulls on shallow pockets characterize this great route. Feels like multiple boulder problems (V5/4) with a couple of marginal shakes. The lower section is a little sandy, but the orange stone at the top is beautiful- the climbing and the rock color remind me of the Churning Buttress routes at Smith Rock. High tech kneebar action seems to be the ticket (for some) with the boulder problem off the ground.
By SMR
Jul 18, 2013

Who is the FA then?