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Jizzneyland 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,629
Submitted By: M.Morley on Mar 21, 2005

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This was just after clipping the 3rd bolt. It's pr...

Description 

Jizzneyland starts just left of 'Isle of You' (the route, not the area) at the obvious arete/break in the rock. Mostly 5.9 climbing with one 5.10 move towards the top, which is well-protected. In fact, the entire route is very well-protected with a bolt nearly every body length. Great climbing on superb stone.

Single-rope rap from 2-bolt anchor gets you back to terra firma.

Protection 

A dozen or so quickdraws.


Photos of Jizzneyland Slideshow Add Photo
The bottom is pretty thin, but there's a huge rest...
The bottom is pretty thin, but there's a huge rest...
Long runout to the first bolt on Jizzneyland!
Long runout to the first bolt on Jizzneyland!

Comments on Jizzneyland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 15, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 30, 2005

Nice route name
By Chris Dillon
Oct 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great climb, and very well protected. I dare you to fall more than 5 feet.
By Danny dubsack
Apr 13, 2006

The lower section is definitely contrived, the upper section is OK.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 9, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is as easy or easier than Stone Woman on the same wall. The route provides a nice mid-way shelf for a rest before heading up and through a short crux.

Nice route and worth climbing while in the area. If 10c is pushing your limits.....try this one.
By Meghan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 4, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The book Rock Climbing Arizona describes this climb as follows: "Jizzneyland (5.10c) Begin right of two large boulders and a right-slanting, left-facing corner. Thin crux edging to the 1st bolt. Continue up right to a small ledge. Climb the headwall above past two 5.10 cruxes to anchors. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Lower off." This sounds EXACTLY like what I did today, but the description above doesn't fit... anybody else do this route lately and know for sure that it was Jizzneyland? The hardest part (for me) was the first twenty feet, which was really thin with small chips to crimp, and the first bolt was VERY far above the ground... in case that rings a bell.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

One side of the anchor is in desperate need of repair/replacement. 3/8" of threads showing with 1/4" of play in the hanger on the bolt and the whole thing wobbles. Repair links (hammer-shut links) are used on both sides vice quick links or factory anchor assemblies. Cold shuts would even be better than repair links. Anyone know if the FA would have problems with upgrades/repairs?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 25, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If the FA is Mike Strassman, he's passed away.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 25, 2008

Hey Daryl, if an anchor or bolt appears to be bad try to tighten the bolt down first. If that doesn't solve the problem then fix it. You don't have to ask permission to fix a bad bolt or anchor. Just make sure you do a good job and everyone will thank you.

You only need to talk to the FA party if you want to dramatically change the location of something or post it on MP.com. (Kidding about the posting part)
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Christian and Eric, thanks guys - i just got back in town. The situation is a little beyond tightening things down, i'm afraid, so i'll put this on the todo list. I'm thinking that route was hand drilled judging by some of the bolt angles on the way up. Not trying to gripe here; just an observation. Thanks again, i'll post a follow up when completed.
By David Lammers
From: Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2009

The first bolt is high on some thin holds. I recommend either stick-clipping the first bolt or climbing up the left ramp to place the first draw to protect those first moves off the ground.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 15, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

best route we did all day by far (better than isle of you, imho)- the .10c is easily avoided by starting the climb above the boulders to the left and traversing in, making this a pleasant .10a route.

condition note- the first bolts hanger has been tightened down horizontally- not ideal, it should probably be fixed at some point in the future.