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Seasoned in the Sun T 
Turnip T 

Jingus the Cat 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Young, Jacquie Beaubien 1986
Page Views: 1,472
Submitted By: claramie on Aug 18, 2011

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Description 

A full on, classic-quality, right angling off fingers to thin fingers dihedral past a ledge. Lieback you way up this low angle beauty then make some face moves left to the anchor after clipping the bolt on the face. Don't go too high at the bolt or youhave to reverse it and start the traverse all over again. The book calls this pitch 10b.

Worth noting that more bolts continue above the anchor. I think this continues into Never Never Land (7p 12a).

Location 

Left of Seasoned in the Sun, where the main path curves left and away from the wall into the wood, stay on a faint trail right at the base of the wall and keep going uphill. You will know when you see it. Splitter off fingers on a low angle slab looking right at you. All in all just a few hunder meters uphill from Seasoned.

Protection 

Doubles of green alien (blue tcu) to .75 camalot. Single #1 and #2 camalot. You could get by with just one green alien too. Like lots of Squamish, you could use 3 or 4 in the off fingers size. I usually roll with doubles of both grey and red alien. Bolt at the top. Two bolt anchor.


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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is awesome. Needs some chains up top for rapping though, I left a biner up there to back up the tat on the hangers.

Bring some small wires for the crux. Or maybe grey Metolius?

Harder than Arrowroot or SITS, significantly so in my opinion. Great position though, and great climbing.

If you're into public service you could hump a machete up there with you for many reasons. It also would double as cougar defence, so...
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

It's getting pretty overgrown up here, or was a few months ago. It was so unpleasant that we didn't end up even climbing this rig, the mud caked on my shoes by the time I started laybacking was prohibitive. Leave your machete, bring a shovel.

On an unrelated note, last year a piece of rock pulled off near the crux. Apparently hasn't affected the difficulty much, but makes clipping the bolt harder. squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...