Jingus the Cat  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Scott Young, Jacquie Beaubien 1986 Submitted By:  claramie on Aug 18, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A full on, classic-quality, right angling off fingers to thin fingers dihedral past a ledge. Lieback you way up this low angle beauty then make some face moves left to the anchor after clipping the bolt on the face. Don't go too high at the bolt or youhave to reverse it and start the traverse all over again. The book calls this pitch 10b.

Worth noting that more bolts continue above the anchor. I think this continues into Never Never Land (7p 12a).

Location 

Left of Seasoned in the Sun, where the main path curves left and away from the wall into the wood, stay on a faint trail right at the base of the wall and keep going uphill. You will know when you see it. Splitter off fingers on a low angle slab looking right at you. All in all just a few hunder meters uphill from Seasoned.

Protection 

Doubles of green alien (blue tcu) to .75 camalot. Single #1 and #2 camalot. You could get by with just one green alien too. Like lots of Squamish, you could use 3 or 4 in the off fingers size. I usually roll with doubles of both grey and red alien. Bolt at the top. Two bolt anchor.