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The first pitch wanders up the face left of Modern Times. This pitch is seldom climbed; The Last Will Be First
is a good alternative path to the GT ledge.
The second pitch is one of the "Waiting for High Exposure
" alternatives. It is quite good, with an excellent crux. Climb into a major corner below the Jim's Gem tree (large pine lower than the others, about 100' left of High Exposure
). The crux is moving right under the small roofs.
100' left of High Exposure
A bolted rappel line left of Jim's Gem leads to the ground in 3 60-m rappels.
Standard gunks rack
By Dana Bartlett
Mar 21, 2011
The latest guide lists two options for climbing the second pitch, and the first one seemed quite a bit harder than 5.8.
By Rob Albert
Apr 9, 2012
If you do the low traverse, and clip the nasty old pin, DO NOT FALL. There is a nasty potential to hurt yourself on the ledge below. The pin is questionable if it will hold. Fun pitch otherwise.
Jun 30, 2012
The low traverse is the first one listed in Dick's guide. So I think that I did the same variation as both Dana & Rob, and I disagree with Dana a bit--I thought it was fairly graded at 5.8, but it's a pumpy move across and then up to the roofs.
I do agree with Rob about the pro. That pin does not inspire confidence-- it is rusty and the eye seems a bit eaten through-- and there is no other pro for the crux. I won't be going back for low traverse unless the pin is replaced. I might go back to try the high road, continuing up the corner and doing delicate moves across.