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End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All 
Cap'm Pissgums 
Days of Future Passed 
Endgame 
Jimmywacky 
Magnus Veritas 
Poetry in Motion 
Son of Gums 
Uncarved Block 
Unknown (L of Endgame) 
Welcome to the Machine 
Unsorted Routes:

Jimmywacky 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: EFR, John Hayes, Virgil Davis
Page Views: 1,375
Submitted By: Geir on Nov 23, 2008
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Andy on the first pitch during a fall sunset
Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent climb on beautiful, exposed rock. For those climbing at this grade, this climb should not be missed!

Pitch 1) Start in the same ramp/trough as Days of Future Passed. Continue up this feature until a bolt appears on your left. Make a hard move left, and continue up past two more bolts and tricky (but good) gear placements to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2) Hard face climbing past four bolts. The climbing eases to 5.9-5.10 after this point, and the bolts become spaced further. Continue along the bolts to the anchor at the end of pitch 3 of Endgame.

A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8

While the second pitch of this climb is very difficult, the first pitch alone is excellent. You can rappel from the end of either pitch with two 60 meter ropes.


Location 

End Pinnacle, South Face.


Protection 

Bolts, stoppers, and a single set of cams to #4.



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By Minty Alpinist
Dec 3, 2008

Geir - I think your topo is missing a route between Jimmywacky and Days...

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2008

yes, that's correct. great gig in the sky is missing. i haven't climbed great gig yet. once i do, though, i'll be glad to add it to the topo (assuming i survive.)

:)
geir

By Minty Alpinist
Jan 30, 2009

Horse poo to you, RickD. That time you spent in Pensyltuckey must have really messed with your mind. Have you ever moved back to the desert?

We did not bail. You belayed me when I lead that spooky runout pitch. You were all over the bolt-minimizing fancy-pants belays where the first piece on the route was part of the belay. (Are two bolts still considered belay anchors if they're 15 vertical feet apart?) We were so messed up after that pitch we couldn't do the third. Late in the day and all that bs. That second pitch had maybe one bolt and three chicken necks to sling (could have used grey tape to hold the slings on the rock). The good news is that it's only vertical...

Maybe there's another RickD in the climbing world?

By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 13, 2012

John Hayes was on the FA of the first pitch and I think Virgil Davis was with me on the second pitch. Pretty cool how exposed this climb is.