This route is easily identified on Circus wall by it's mid-face anchor of 3 pins equalized with webbing (presently blue/grey) and a rapid link.
The First pitch begins from teh ground moving up some distance to a series of 5 pins, tending gently left to the left side of the rock below this anchor. The second pitch moves sharply up and right into a cave with an additional (similar) anchor within it. The first station and anchor are easily obverved from below. THe pins have a small chop or two of the original blue paint in a few places that can be made out upon vey close inspection.
P1: (5.9, 100') CLimb up the easy slab to reach the first pin and then as the angle steepens reach a small-holds crux (5.9) with some sloper feet before a flat section of the wall (3rd pin?). P2: (5.9, 50') Continue to and past anchor as an extension of P1 if possible (shoudl be if you used long draws), bending sharp right, clipping at the waist past 2 more pins before going to a very vertical section with a reachy crux (5.9) with a pin overhead, then up easier moves into the cave.
A single rap is required for easy retreat due to the right-hand movement of the second pitch. This can be done down to 4th class terrain with a single 70M rope or to the base with two 50M ropes. Either seems safe for anyone remotely capable of leadingthis route.
This route is essentially a sport route. It can be done with only mild runouts in moderate terrian (5.7?) without any trad gear, although a few small cams or large stoppers could be placed here and there.
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I lead this in one pitch for a really nice 180ft 5.9 pitch. Long slings are useful to remove rope drag. Really enjoyable face climb w/good pro.