Jimmy Dean 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 245 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | EFR, Scott McNamara |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 3, 2012 |
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Climber rappelling Jimmy Dean
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Description Fight through the first 40 feet then settle in for some less difficult climbing. The first pitch follows a corner system after the bolts then hits a ledge with a bolted Anchor next to a pillar. 2) Climb crack up pillar then follow bolts up face to a small overhang that takes pro. Bust up and left and follow corners to top. It takes a single 70M rope to just reach the mid point anchors and the ground in two rappels.
Location This climb ascends the face right of Jaws but starts 115 feet lower on the ledge that splits Neptune in the middle. It is the leftmost route on the ledge and starts about 20 feet left of Naranja.
Protection Bolts and double rack to Blue camalots
Climber on pitch 2
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BETA PHOTO: The new start is the one with the rope on it. The...
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.11c
| A good warmup for the wall and a good way to rap down Neptune. The second pitch is a bit more heady than the first. The crux is around the third bolt on pitch 1. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 11, 2012
| Geir and I added a new slightly easier start to this route today. It is probably only two letter grades easier than the original start but I think I will use this as my warm-up from now on. It takes good gear up to a bolt then traverses right to the original route. |
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