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Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
Junco S 
Lady and the Tramp S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Love Nest T,TR 
Nuthatch, The S 
Piece of Cake S 
Pine Tree Crack T 
Scare Crow T 
Searchers, The T 
Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

Jimmy Crack Corn 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bradley White 2010 and again with Brian Winslow
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: bradley white on Sep 16, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The start of the bolted section.

Description 

The first pitch goes up diagonally to the beginning of the broken rock area. this first section isn't bolted and there isn't gear but the climbing isn't bad. Maybe the start to finish could stay this way on the first pitch. I free solo it or bring up a rope via right sided rock ramp to trees. Lots of secure foot holds on the rock. No pro for the first 40 ft. first time wasn't sure how easy. Climb is (5.2) zone. The dirt at the trees is okay to reach the rock to step off of onto the face (5.4) but belay first. Near top of face I ended here at a stopper crack and for rappel also 2 bolts. I came back and met Lee Hansche before I got started going up again from the step off. Lee's been somewhere up here before.
Today I went the rest of the way to the top. First on some dry moss before the forest left of the belay higher up. Not good. I bolted some good rock headwall left of where I went up (2 bolts). It'll be better but way harder to climb over on the left side of that wall. It has lichen left of the bolts and after the lichen and rock (5.6) there are oak trees for belay. It's tight foot space and decent enough. My accomplishment, I packed up and walked up to next wall (a boxed in section where the oak trees end). the next belay. I was packed ready for going home with my rock shoes on. I went up the middle and stayed that way until I backed off and proceeded fully loaded left into the steep. I climbed up the boxed in corner wall until I could move left and up on thin flakes crux (5.5) for 12ft. Then out under an awesome ceiling by a difficult access made onto grass for feet first and then a bush ledge. Up from here is the crack in the forest of lichen available to climb. That wonderful crack for me and walls covered in lichen were not a problem. I payed attention to how carefully I stepped out to get this 20ft. (5.3) crack event done. There are harder options to be had lower and up now. The first time I went leftward up so that I could head rightward up until I stepped over a six inch fissure cornered to a two ft. fissure. Cool and after that basically the climb was done 40ft? I headed left towards Clip-a-dee-doo-dah to go down. I'm psyched to do this climb without the drill. I will carry a small trad. rack. Including the dirt ramps this climb will go up 200ft. from where it starts. Central part of the boxed in corner goes nowhere. The climb still has committing run outs. There are climbers below this climb and the rock quality of the third pitch inside wall flakes start out weak flakey edged rock and gets stronger the higher up you go. These flakes are a little runout.


Location 

The big moss cover rock that divides the Alcove area from the Junco side. Climb up the broken rock area by a large diagonal crack meeting the forest ground is before the alcove. No pro and not hard when you don't think about how high up you are going. Then there is a very cool spot at some rocks to hang out and put your shoes on. Great location.


Protection 

1 bolt at the belay after the first 40ft. pitch at the step off and a cam at your feet. 3 bolts including the belay bolt leads at 5.4 up slab face and ends at 2 bolts for rappel 50 feet up. Sharp edge of rock before the slab. I rappelled to below the step off rock 50ft. and then did another rappel 40ft. off of the higher part of a set of trees, that got me nearly to the ground. The next time I went up from the 2 bolt belay climbed back down and went left and up to a 2.5 cam placement in cracked rock. Up and right easy and then unprotected rock and dirty moss up to traverse back left to the oak trees for belay 40ft. This way has too much dirt that's spooky steps. I put in 2 bolts on clean rock by rappel. The grade of climbing unknown until I climbed it in October. The moves are balancing and the crux is immediate and goes on beyond the second bolt at 5.6 or 7. Committing balancing maneuvers to reach the exit above second bolt. The climbs ascends slightly to the left of the bolts and not in alignment with them. The pendulum shouldn't be a big deal if falling. Falling going up through the leaves at the exit a climber would hit the lower deck hard. I went to the highest oak trees ahead. I was belayed by Brian Winslow. Brain led the last pitch. Thee are four anchors on the last pitch. One of them a bolt below the exit from the ceiling is comforting. The other three enable a climber to choose four different exit strategies near the top. Brian chose a higher up the crack exit, like the one I did the first time. There is no belay immediately at the top of the cliff. That's because of the great fire. It's not that necessary there are trees higher up in land. Technical climbing is done at the last anchor, a ring piton that Brian didn't see. He went up and left towards Jimmy Cliff's top and veered in land before it to some trees for belay. There's a nice boulder problem below these trees not climbed yet.
2-3.5 Friends, Tri-cams would work best in the cracks and smallest TCU's, a few smaller stoppers, four tree slings.
This climb can be done on fixed anchors only in summer with some long run outs and some tree slings and a maximum of 7 quick draws and plenty of gumption. I'd do it with this light rack mostly because I know the climb.



Photos of Jimmy Crack Corn Slideshow Add Photo
The start and keep following this crack until there is a wall next to a dirt ramp. Do the wall or dirt no pro yet.
The start and keep following this crack until ther...
burn out.  <br />
burn out.
Top of first pitch and accessible from both sides.
Top of first pitch and accessible from both sides....
Nice day.
Nice day.
The top of the climb. This area many of the trees were burned to death. There is a large oak further up to belay on. You would need to make the connection very long so that you could get back to where the climbing ends to belay without dragging your rope through the surface stuff. It's very unlikely anyone would fall after the last anchor.
The top of the climb. This area many of the trees ...
This is the other option to this boxed in section. This looked to steep for the weight I had on. Not much to hold onto and after this rock moss covered ledges.
This is the other option to this boxed in section....
Ambiance.
Ambiance.
Looking down at 'Jimmy Crack Corn'.
Looking down at 'Jimmy Crack Corn'.
The slab wall the climb is on. All exits off of the slab in the photo are not good because of the loose dirt above the slab. Getting beyond the slab is out of view on the left, below where the trees are.
BETA PHOTO: The slab wall the climb is on. All exits off of th...
Doing the ropes.
Doing the ropes.
Looking down before going down.
Looking down before going down.
I thought the climb would finish after this ceiling. I was mistaken. I had many more ft. to climb instead.
BETA PHOTO: I thought the climb would finish after this ceilin...
Everything else around here to climb on is out of control. I ended up going left here to get above. You can set up a decent belay there above those grasses.
BETA PHOTO: Everything else around here to climb on is out of ...
Summit crack.
Summit crack.
The top cap rock.
The top cap rock.
The Jimmy Cliff trail.
The Jimmy Cliff trail.
Comments on Jimmy Crack Corn Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 16, 2010

Man, Ward is going to have his work cut out for him checking out all the new routes for the next guidebook. He might find some new species in the process. : )

Here is a challenge for somebody: Do every Bradley White route at Rumney in a day (only the ones lead free). That might beat Justin Hayes's doing a 5.12 at every crag. You have to survive for it to count.

Want to make a list for us, Bradley?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 16, 2010

I think Allen Cattabriga would have the best chance.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 17, 2010

Ha ha ha, Bradley. It is no different from running a marathon. Sometimes it is nice to go slow and enjoy the discovery. Sometimes it is nice to push yourself and enjoy that feeling. It might be a fun challenge, taking you all over the mountain.

Allen is into that stuff, doing 3 laps on Cannon in 23 seconds or what ever he does now.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 17, 2010

Hmmm, looks like a lot of work, but it might be doable. I think you would need to start early with a headlamp on a nice long summer day. Looks like a fun goal if you like mileage.

Thanks for the list, Bradley

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"I free soloed it and came back the same week to rappel anchor it because I am a Jim-Cracker. Did the climb with Brian Winslow Oct. 5th and the middle section short headwall went at (5.6-7?). Finally put a smallest TCU in the first pitch crack. The crack will take stoppers but there are some pebbles in the way that need to be chiseled out first. The climb this time of the year has some seepage in the middle section of it. So, I moved the belay further left from the original belay to a dry place."

Comment by bradley white on September 24th, 2010 12:43 pm

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"The requested list for M Sprague and company has begun. Below the summit start on 'Makamah Road', then get down to 'Freedonia', 'Hannah', 'Bubble Bee', climb the finish up the ridge on the 'Lone Ranger'. Go down west and do 'Paper Wafer' and 'B.B. Buttress', cross over east to the 'Dike Route', 'Fixing a Hole', 'Senior Citizen', 'Bad Sneakers', 'Beat the Heat', 'Cracker Cracks', 'Jimmy Crack Corn', 'When Pigs Fly', and 'Stool Pigeon'. Head down hill to do 'Darth Vader', On trail go across to the Venus wall area going west until the big red spot is painted on the rock. Do 'Edge', 'Scorched', 'Schist a side' the 'Dirtiest Climb' and 'Singed' in this area. Go down to 'Brendan's Bitches', 'Juicy Fingers', 'Metamorphosis' (beginning on 'Slack' and moving up right) finishing up the 'Big Easy' to the same belay ledge, finish up second pitch. From the top of the first pitch of 'Slack' go left instead of up and right. Do 'Barber Shop Duet'. Do 'Iron Man' original start to nowhere. Climb 'Know Ethics' and 'Rock De Jour' to somewhere?, 'Orange Crush' to 'Chinese Water Torture' and also the Orange Crush's finish pitch. Do 'Orange Sunshine' and do 'Orange Sunshine' right side Arete corner finish, 'Son of Sammy', 'Short Wave', 'Black Dog Crack', 'Sam Spade', 'Schist Another Crack'. Okay, now go and do 'Bolt Line' to the trees. From there do 'They Come and They Go' and eventually I'll free 'An Elephant Never Forgets'.
Entirely free climbed recorded climbs. The climbs listed don't necessarily go as mine first. They are listed as someone else did that one first. The way some went up then isn't the way up as the bolted route is now. Many of the climbs I did once and not again. Of those some are climbed again and again now. Most aren't retro bolted.
Once I picture a climb I want to go do it. I am thankful to the great spirit that I have gone this far without much injury. My successes at climbing FFA is high and were higher angled once upon a time. I look for steep with foot ledges for most of my successes nowadays.
So the angle has changed most of the time I climb. Rattlesnake this past year I was successful. I found some steep stuff I could get up. It is my 30 year anniversary of climbing at the Snake. I've been around and get screwed up on knowing what the land use rules are. I've never meant to trouble anyone. I use removable bolts. There's been plenty of trouble here before about people climbing on it and getting hurt also. For posterity's sake I added some more climbs this past year. Most of the climbs are walk offs and aren't so hot. A few are good."

Comment by bradley white on October 16th, 2010 7:19 pm