Jimmy and the Cruisers
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BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch
A sustained route on pretty good rock w/ no bad, several good and one great pitch. Josephson rates it 10c, Genereux 10/11a R; I'll split the difference.
P1: 10- PG, 35M. Follow the corner/crack up to a bolted anchor about 10M below the roof.
P2: 10+, 45M. Continue up the crack line and go straight over the roof. Above this sustained 5.10 past a pin leads to a fixed belay.
P3: 5.9R 25M. You can either follow Red shirt or: Traverse left for a few feet then go up a corner for a while w/ no pro, get some gear, pass the former location of two pins and merge with a bigger corner that is part of Red Shirt. Continue up to a belay on RS (fixed pins) then traverse left about 3M to another fixed anchor and belay. The section that's shared w/ RS has two or three viable lines w/in the grade so it's possible to climb through even if people are doing this pitch of Red Shirt.)
This pitch sounds scarier than it is.
P4: 5.10 35M. Up a crack with good pro past a thin hands crux to a fixed anchor.
P5: 5.10+ R 35M. A memorable pitch. Up a corner with one or two tricky moves and good pro until you reach a much remarked upon handrail which traverses straight right across the face. There are four or five bolts on the traverse the last of which is higher than the rest and is the only one which is easy to see from the start of the pitch; it's easy to climb past the traverse but here are a couple of hints to find the start: 1. It's about 10M above the belay 2. there is a sucker bolt above and to the left of the corner about 5M above the traverse -- if you can see this bolt, you've gone too high.
Once you've found the start of the traverse, rail right, easy but exciting as there is no pro for at least 4M from the corner. There is a good placement before the first bolt; I put a nut here but a cam would have been better as the nut popped before the second got to it, exposing him to an unnecessarily unprotected traverse. (Note: the guidebook mentions that some people do the traverse with their feet on the rail; if you use this approach, give the pitch an X as it clipping the bolts would be almost impossible.) Continue right on the traverse until you reach a point where there is a bolt to your right and one above you; both options work, but going up seemed more obvious to me though I thought getting to the next bolt was the crux and slightly exciting at that. Once you clip the upper bolt, contend w/ the technical crux of the pitch, moving right horizontally past the bolt onto a decent ledge. From here the anchors are 10M above and 3M right with no hope of pro; fortunately the climbing isn't too hard (~5.9) with the hardest moves being at the start. Once you leave the corner, the rock is exceptionally prickly; finger pain may heighten your emotions as you run it out to the anchor.
P6 10- 30M. From the anchor go up and right to a bolt, then up and left to another, a little spicey in its own right. Pull over a bulge and follow easier ground to the top.
Starts about 25M left of Red shirt at a shallow left-facing corner with a roof/bulge about 50M above the ground.
Single set of nuts, one and a half set of cams to #3 Camalot. Lots of runners. Double ropes.
Starting the traverse on P5