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Jews On Crack T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Jews On Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Evan Stevens & David Bloom - 2005ish
Page Views: 1,977
Submitted By: Ian Schmit on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Getting down to business under the roof.

Description 

Walk past Annunaki down the wall a ways. Look up to spot this impressive wide hands roof 100 feet off the deck. Burl your way up the wide 5.9 start via some awkward moves in a flared chimney to the base of the roof. Launch out of the roof on polished feet and wide hand jams. Just as the jams get their widest, be prepared for a confrontation with some guano. Make one of the best positioned moves I've ever done to clip the chains.

Protection 

Heavy on the #3.5 and new #4 Camalots. A few #3 and #2, possibly a couple #1 too, although I found few uses for them. 70M rope.


Photos of Jews On Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Dixon at the crux roof.
Eric Dixon at the crux roof.

Comments on Jews On Crack Add Comment
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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
May 23, 2012

guano!!! this route is great fun all the way till you hit the largest swarth of shit in the creek.. i got crushed at the point the "guano" took over..
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2013

Oh man, this route is fun, until the mega poop roof. It was full of sand and a huge swath of crap layered very thick. Slick and poopy situation indeed.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Apr 19, 2014

Would-be 5-star mega-classic but the guano finish left me feeling downright dirty. Definately still worth jumping on though. I suggest saving about four #3 camalot-sized pieces for the roof and one #5 C4 is great for the wide bit mid-pitch (not 2 of 'em like the guidebook suggests).
By swadeky
From: Moab, UT
May 20, 2014

Agreed that this climb would be mega classic if not for the guano. Super fun movement and gnarly roof. Word of caution, I had a blue friend size piece pop out when i fell at the roof, luckily my next #3 BD caught me. exciting! still worth doing the route but be cautious with cam placements in the guano and soft sand, which i am pretty sure made the cam ooze out.
By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 21, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Anchor fixed up and tat replaced with chain courtesy of ASCA.

This is one of the burlier 5.11 routes at The Creek, and one of my new favorites. Hop on it, just bring plenty of #3s and #4s. No need to bring more than one #1, contrary to what the Bloom book describes.

uses every bit of a 70 meter rope.