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Jews On Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Evan Stevens & David Bloom - 2005ish
Page Views: 1,905
Submitted By: Ian Schmit on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Getting down to business under the roof.

Description 

Walk past Annunaki down the wall a ways. Look up to spot this impressive wide hands roof 100 feet off the deck. Burl your way up the wide 5.9 start via some awkward moves in a flared chimney to the base of the roof. Launch out of the roof on polished feet and wide hand jams. Just as the jams get their widest, be prepared for a confrontation with some guano. Make one of the best positioned moves I've ever done to clip the chains.

Protection 

Heavy on the #3.5 and new #4 Camalots. A few #3 and #2, possibly a couple #1 too, although I found few uses for them. 70M rope.


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By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
May 23, 2012

guano!!! this route is great fun all the way till you hit the largest swarth of shit in the creek.. i got crushed at the point the "guano" took over..
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2013

Oh man, this route is fun, until the mega poop roof. It was full of sand and a huge swath of crap layered very thick. Slick and poopy situation indeed.
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
Apr 19, 2014

Would-be 5-star mega-classic but the guano finish left me feeling downright dirty. Definately still worth jumping on though. I suggest saving about four #3 camalot-sized pieces for the roof and one #5 C4 is great for the wide bit mid-pitch (not 2 of 'em like the guidebook suggests).
By swadeky
From: Moab, UT
May 20, 2014

Agreed that this climb would be mega classic if not for the guano. Super fun movement and gnarly roof. Word of caution, I had a blue friend size piece pop out when i fell at the roof, luckily my next #3 BD caught me. exciting! still worth doing the route but be cautious with cam placements in the guano and soft sand, which i am pretty sure made the cam ooze out.