Walk past Annunaki down the wall a ways. Look up to spot this impressive wide hands roof 100 feet off the deck. Burl your way up the wide 5.9 start via some awkward moves in a flared chimney to the base of the roof. Launch out of the roof on polished feet and wide hand jams. Just as the jams get their widest, be prepared for a confrontation with some guano. Make one of the best positioned moves I've ever done to clip the chains.
Heavy on the #3.5 and new #4 Camalots. A few #3 and #2, possibly a couple #1 too, although I found few uses for them. 70M rope.
|By Devin Fin|
May 23, 2012
guano!!! this route is great fun all the way till you hit the largest swarth of shit in the creek.. i got crushed at the point the "guano" took over..
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 5, 2013
Oh man, this route is fun, until the mega poop roof. It was full of sand and a huge swath of crap layered very thick. Slick and poopy situation indeed.
|By Brandon Gottung|
From: Moab, UT
Apr 19, 2014
Would-be 5-star mega-classic but the guano finish left me feeling downright dirty. Definately still worth jumping on though. I suggest saving about four #3 camalot-sized pieces for the roof and one #5 C4 is great for the wide bit mid-pitch (not 2 of 'em like the guidebook suggests).
From: Moab, UT
May 20, 2014
Agreed that this climb would be mega classic if not for the guano. Super fun movement and gnarly roof. Word of caution, I had a blue friend size piece pop out when i fell at the roof, luckily my next #3 BD caught me. exciting! still worth doing the route but be cautious with cam placements in the guano and soft sand, which i am pretty sure made the cam ooze out.