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"This area classic is the second-best route in the crag next to Jet Stream. At the first bolt, climb up and right. Follow a series of closely spaced bolts on secure holds with airy exposure. The route's middle section is steep and sustained. Continue to the rock's top and top-chains. This well-protected route makes an excellent lead climb and is highly recommended." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006
Main Wall, center. Right of Nook and Cranny and left (across the narrow gully) of Black Market Organ Donor.
|By Richard Denker|
From: Portland OR
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
It is one of the best 5.8 in the state, solid and fun rock.
Protection is 9 or 10 bolts plus the anchor. Near the top there is a short traverse to the left with a bolt at the beginning of the traverse and a bolt at the end. The ending bolt seems to be at or slightly lower then the beginning bolt and is unnecessary. However, if you plan to clip it you should bring a double length quickdraw (or a regular runner). If you donít clip it there are only 9 bolts en route.
Extra bonus, if it is near lunchtime bring your lunch and eat it at the top of the climb, a nice little spot with beautiful views, though it has a somewhat a tricky rappel to get down.