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This is a very classic, Hard route. It offers some of the best rock in Red Rock. The moves are not easy but the climbing is brilliant.
Pitch 1: Start up dirty corners and climb up to a little ledge with a small tree. Protection through this section is scarce. Climb left off the small ledge following the obvious cracks to a nice little belay ledge with 2 bolts. 5.10a, R. 110ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the awesome steep varnished wall above the belay. Climb past 4 bolts. This is a unique and cryptic bit of climbing. continue up a seam above the last bolt, get some good gear here. Begin climbing a rising traverse up and left, passing a bolt, until you are under a rap anchor. Step around the corner to the left and belay on a nice ledge off of a separate belay anchor (2bolts). Rated 5.12c originally but seems much harder. 90ft.
Pitch 3: climb the obvious corner directly above the belay passing 3 bolts. Shortly after the 3 rd bolt step out right onto the arete and climb up the face. You will need to step back at some point to place gear in the crack. continue up the face passing 1 more bolt and belay on an excellent ledge(2 bolts). 5.12a, 110ft.
Pitch 4: Yes you get to climb that sick varnished corner above the belay! climb up into the corner. getting established above the small roof is very difficult and requires some very unique stemming moves. Continue climbing the awesome varnish finger crack until you can step to a small ledge on the right and belay (2bolts). This pitch was rated 5.12b originally, but seems much harder. 100ft.
Pitch 5: Step back left and climb the crack that has now become low angle. Continue until you can clip a rappel anchor the traverse up and left to a nice ledge and belay at 2 bolts. Originally 5.11a, but seems easier.
Pitch 6: Climb up under the roof and clip a bolt. Do some unique moves to get out from under the roof and continue up the corner to a good rest stance. Climb up and right past 2 bolts. Step around the corner(big air)and climb the crack arching to the right. Step back left and belay at 2 good bolts. 5.12a, 80ft
To descend Rappel with 1 70M rope. Using the 2 rap anchors you passed on the way up.
1 set RPs/HBs with doubles in the medium to large sizes.
3#00, 3#0, 1 each cams to a #1 camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up @ Pitch #4. Sick Varnish!
BETA PHOTO: Start of the Route. You can see the bulging Varnis...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6.
|By j wharton|
Mar 30, 2010
This route is among the best routes at Red Rocks. A bit shorter, but perhaps better overall then the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall, and considerably harder. The first 30 feet of pitch 2, and the first 15 feet of pitch 4 are the definitive cruxes. Despite the .12c rating in Handren's new book, local consensus seems to put them somewhere around .13 minus, however they're bizarre, body english climbing that seems impossible at first, and then "easy" once you know what to do. It's easy to pull through the cruxes and enjoy the route at .12- AO. This route is fantastic, don't miss it!
|By j wharton|
Apr 4, 2010
Apparently the obvious right facing arch just to the left of pitch 4 goes at straightforward .11+/.12-, which would eleminate the most cryptic bit of climbing on the route.
From: Mojave, CA
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b R
This route is the real deal: serious, committing, and difficult for the grade. IMO, Texas Tower Direct is much easier and better protected. If I climbed it again I might bring BallNutz. There are lengthy sections that will not take bigger than a #4 BD nut. So no micro-cam will work and because the route has not been beat-out by pitons, you are left with a crack that doesn't really take RP's all that well either. The first 20 ft of Pitch 4 is just plain scary and I personally wish there were a bolt to protect a fall onto the ledge/belayer. On the other hand, if you are solid at 5.12 trad over small gear this will be a glorious test-piece. This route is not even in the same league as Drifting.