|Old New Place
This was the "last great problem" at the ONP until I figured out a sequence and then Rick beat me to the FA by about 3 minutes (to be fair, I got first shot at it and fell off, then managed it after he did it). Pretty much a 10 foot boulder problem with easier terrain above and below, but still a fun problem to throw yourself at on TR.
The route climbs the blank-looking dihedral/seam just right of route #9 in the photo. The business occurs at about 20 feet, after which things ease off to about 5.10ish. If you're having trouble finding it, look for the overhanging, extremely improbably looking right-facing shallow dihedral.
There is essentially none for the crux, I have to believe that a fall would be fatal on lead.
|By jamie Hamilton|
From: santa fe nm
Mar 3, 2010
I lead this route recently. Two kbs lower the commitment from X to probable R although the upper kb (right in the middle of the crux) is dodgy and if it blew you might deck. I also rolled onto the over hanging face to the left of the normal finish to keep the route a little more sustained. Also I think the grade is a bit soft, I think it is more in the range of 12 to 12+. Great route and a really exciting lead.
Mar 6, 2010
Nice! That's probably the real FA, then! Neither Rick or I was willing to trust the pro we could find - rattly RPs behind a big loose flake that was fitted into the dihedral - I'm amazed you got any pro in at all. It's possible that the big flake fell out, which might have revealed something worth placing gear in, of course.