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Wanker Rail, The 

jesus jugs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: john crawley, able jones
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: john crawley on Nov 16, 2011
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John on the FA of the naturally clean Jesus Jugs. ...

Description 

This route might be the friendliest dacite crack around. The route begins with 9 ft. Of jug pulling on a face which brings you to the beautiful hand crack in the dihedral. As you climb up the ever widening crack enjoy the awesome jams and jugs. Pull up onto the block and place a few interesting pieces before busting the crux move up the left leaning crack. Finish by topping out.


Location 

Pigmy cracks area. Lowest sector of routes at oaklands. Look up left as you walk up the trail. It's the obvious clean splinter dihedral.


Protection 

Set of cams and nuts.



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By john crawley
From: flagstaff, az
Nov 20, 2011

It would be three stars if it was longer.