Jesus and Tequila 5.12b
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | John Scott, Dave Groth- 1988 |
| Season: | fall/spring |
| Submitted By: | ChanVan on Apr 4, 2009 |
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Jesus and Tequila
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Description One of the coolest sport climbs I've ever done. This route has a lot of character- overhanging face, balancy arete, hard and memorable crux, exciting dihedral, and a cruel joke finish- Go do it.
Location On the arete to climber's left of the Quinsana roof- there's a big boulder that you lean over to the wall from to start- rap down or walk over to the ladder
Protection 9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor
Big sports action
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Jeremy Steck, at the 4th clip on Jesus and Tequila...
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| Comments on Jesus and Tequila |
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By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Apr 7, 2009
| classic! i repeated this one many times because it is that good. a good 'barometer' route to know if you're on form for the harder endless wall testpieces. |
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Oct 4, 2009
| Fantastic route. Must do. |
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 1, 2010
| Great climb! Many have said that this is the best 5.12b in the gorge. Stick clip the first bolt and start from the top of the boulder by leaning across the gap to reach the first holds. Once established on the face, climb up and around to the right of the arete and back to the left side to clip the 2nd bolt. From here, work up the left side of the arete to the 5th bolt. Clipping the 5th bolt is difficult and much easier if the draws are hung. The crux begins at the 5th bolt. Utilize several crimps and find a way to gain the positive hold above at the base of a shallow dihedral. From here, continue up the dihedral, make a long move and continue up the next dihedral to reach the overhang. Make the final clip and find the crimp above to work out left a bit and follow a few positive slopers to the finish (redpoint crux). |
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