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Jester Wall
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Jester 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2009.09.13 (FFA: D.Caron, C. Goodman)
Page Views: 238
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on Jul 7, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Jester 11a

Description 

Obvious line directly below tuning fork Spruce tree. An easy start to the first bolt, then a tricky crux with a shallow mono pocket to crank on will bring you to easier climbing between 2nd and 3rd bolts then another thin crux section up the vertical face to finish. ArÍte near the top can be used to make the route 10c.


Location 

The amazing line in the center of jester wall.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2 raprings



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FFA of Jester in 2009
FFA of Jester in 2009
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By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

A little history on the route as I have the FFA. The original way I did it had the crux at the start using the very crappy shallow mono. I used the arÍte at the top and graded it 5.11 a or b. I went on it onsight and just climbed it. After that many people found better beta at the crux to the right where you skip the mono beta altogether. This is where the downgrade comes from. I think the route is now a 5.10c. Not using the arÍte at the top would be ridiculous as it's right there. Eliminates are made for the gym. It's always the path of least resistance that prevails outside.