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 ADVANCED
Fourth Flatiron
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Arc de Triumph S 
East Face, Extra Credit Summit T 
East Face, North Side T 
East Face, South Side T 
East Face/4th Flatiron T 
Excellent Crack T 
Jester T 
Lower South-East Gully T 
No Balls At All 

Jester 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Horan, Baldwin 1988
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 3, 2004

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Bob Horan on the west face of the Fourth Flatiron.

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of three face and crack pitches on the south side of the middle tier of the second flatiron.This is the leftmost line, which begins 20' downhill from some large pine trees.The first half of this pitch sucks and the second half is really fun. The start is unobvious and rather scary. Begin up some broken plates and make an unprotected 5.9ish move to gain a thin right facing dihedral 25' off the ground. Place a small cam and move to the ramp above. Follow this up and left to a good hand crack with a right arching cap. Move right and up to a nice ledge with a hidden piton. Continue up and right following a thin diagonal crack (crux). Belay once the east face is reached.There is a bolted line that goes straight up after the piton is reached, but the diagonal crack is the best part of the route. The "s" is for the initial 30'.The topo in the Rossiter guide is good, but makes no mention of the committing run out at the beginning and shows two bolts that to the best of my knowledge do not exist.

Protection 

Single rack through #3 Camalot, extra #2.


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By Joe Collins
May 7, 2004

Beware of poison ivy in this gully. Right now it's hard to avoid since it hasn't leafed yet, and I got it pretty good on my arm.

The cam placement after the unprotected mantle looked bad... an offset Alien might work well here. The next moves are tricky 5.8/9 to get to the ramp... borderline VS territory if the cam fails. The upper half of this pitch is quite nice. Bring your RPs for the thin crack. It really didn't look like this route had seen much traffic in a long time.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2007

This Route is a 'direct start' variation of a route originally known as Pilaf. Comments to this effect can be found at:
mountainproject.com/v/colorado...

They are copied here for the sake of clarity:
-------------
By Rick A:

I got an email asking if the route Tony mentions here (faith and Resurrection) is the route “Pilaf,” done in the days when the Flatirons were young. I went up and found that the route Tony describes is not “Pilaf”, a climb Eric Erickson and I did in 1982. Pilaf is mistakenly called “Jester” in Rossiter’s Bouder Climbs North guide.

If you walk uphill from Death and Transfiguration for about 20 yards, you reach a saddle that allows you to walk carefully down a fern-and- poison- ivy- filled gully to the south. This little valley separates the lower section of the Fourth Flatiron from the upper section. A short ways down this valley to the left is what Roach calls the Gash, and Tony calls the alley. The alley separates Green Mountain Pinnacle from the Fourth Flatiron. This is the location for Tony’s route which faces due South within the alley. Pilaf is reached by walking farther down the fern filled gully to the south, past the alley for 30 yards or so. Pilaf is on the west facing side of the lower Fourth Flatiron and the best landmark is to locate a green sling on horn that is protection on a climb called Arc de Triumph, that is to the right of Pilaf.