|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Horan, Baldwin 1988|
|Submitted By:||Brian Milhaupt on May 3, 2004|
|Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Jester||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Joe Collins
May 7, 2004
Beware of poison ivy in this gully. Right now it's hard to avoid since it hasn't leafed yet, and I got it pretty good on my arm.
The cam placement after the unprotected mantle looked bad... an offset Alien might work well here. The next moves are tricky 5.8/9 to get to the ramp... borderline VS territory if the cam fails. The upper half of this pitch is quite nice. Bring your RPs for the thin crack. It really didn't look like this route had seen much traffic in a long time.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2007
This Route is a 'direct start' variation of a route originally known as Pilaf. Comments to this effect can be found at:
They are copied here for the sake of clarity:
By Rick A:
I got an email asking if the route Tony mentions here (faith and Resurrection) is the route “Pilaf,” done in the days when the Flatirons were young. I went up and found that the route Tony describes is not “Pilaf”, a climb Eric Erickson and I did in 1982. Pilaf is mistakenly called “Jester” in Rossiter’s Bouder Climbs North guide.
If you walk uphill from Death and Transfiguration for about 20 yards, you reach a saddle that allows you to walk carefully down a fern-and- poison- ivy- filled gully to the south. This little valley separates the lower section of the Fourth Flatiron from the upper section. A short ways down this valley to the left is what Roach calls the Gash, and Tony calls the alley. The alley separates Green Mountain Pinnacle from the Fourth Flatiron. This is the location for Tony’s route which faces due South within the alley. Pilaf is reached by walking farther down the fern filled gully to the south, past the alley for 30 yards or so. Pilaf is on the west facing side of the lower Fourth Flatiron and the best landmark is to locate a green sling on horn that is protection on a climb called Arc de Triumph, that is to the right of Pilaf.