||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 190'
|Consensus: ||C1+ [details]|
|FA: ||Jay Miller, Andy Roberts 3/10|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring & Fall|
|Page Views: ||523|
|Submitted By: ||A. Roberts on Apr 4, 2010|
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Looking at the upper half, the headwall splitter s...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The route starts with a short lower wall to access the nice corner above. Follow the steep corner (#1 Camalots) up through a roof, to a natural belay, just below a small pod. C1 (100')The next pitch starts with thin cams up to a really thin left arching corner. A knifeblade was placed to back up a really small nut, that ended up holding. This corner eventually leads to the awesome overhanging splitter seen from below. Follow the left, then right trending splitter to the top. C1+
The route is the analog crack of "Everything's Better with Shredder" It splits the 3rd summit from the west, on the North side (facing the river). The corner is obvious, above the short approach crack, and the headwall splitter to the top can't be missed. Once on top walk the 25-30' to the other side of the tower to find the anchors set up to rap the South side (2 rope rap). This route stays in the shade most of the day.
3 sets of cams up to a #3 Camalot. 2 #4 Camalots. Set of nuts (small sizes) Maybe one extra #1 Camalots, for a total of 4. At least 1 #00 metolious.
Jay starting the 2nd pitch, just below the crux th...
The corner on the 1st pitch. (#1 Camalots)