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BETA PHOTO: "Jerry Brown".
Photo by Blitzo.
This enjoyable trad climb on solid brown rock begins in a very thin crack about 30' up from Captain Kronos. The crack becomes progressively wider after going over a small roof. Pro is bomber and easy to place.
Small to medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's and a few cams to 3.5". Small to medium TCU's or cams for an anchor. Walk off to the south (towards Sports Challenge Rock) for the descent.
|By C Miller|
Nov 11, 2003
A fun route with great jamming on solid varnish. Good pro, a nice sunny exposure and a casual walk to approach.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 13, 2004
Don't traverse all the way left under the route. Found it to be a little harder than anticipated. Keep aiming straight up from the initial seam.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 17, 2008
This is one pumpy little devil! Don't make the mistake I did trying to fiddle gear in at the roof. Just stand up a little higher and you can get in a bomber nut. Unfortunately, there are a few loose blocks in the crack up higher that you might want to pro behind.
Great climb. 10b, but pumpy for the grade IMO.
From: at large
Nov 17, 2008
I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
A very sustained route. Sneaky gear at the start (I got a wire in the crack to the right at the roof and them moved into the route) but it sounds like perhaps a bit higher would have been easier?
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Nov 15, 2012
Great rock in a great winter spot. This route makes you try hard and is fulfilling!!
|By MikeP ROWCC|
Feb 19, 2013
Great climb on good rock. The bottom was a little pumpy with a great rest. It looked hard to pull the roof from the ground but it was actually not bad with nice finger locks. Crux came right after a huge jug with a move of tips crack to get higher. Pumpy, sustained 5.9 climbing with a two move 10.b crux.