Jerry Brown 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinski & John Yablonski, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Vernon Stiefel on May 11, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Jerry Brown".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description This enjoyable trad climb on solid brown rock begins in a very thin crack about 30' up from Captain Kronos. The crack becomes progressively wider after going over a small roof. Pro is bomber and easy to place.
Protection Small to medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's and a few cams to 3.5". Small to medium TCU's or cams for an anchor. Walk off to the south (towards Sports Challenge Rock) for the descent.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| A fun route with great jamming on solid varnish. Good pro, a nice sunny exposure and a casual walk to approach. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 13, 2004
| Don't traverse all the way left under the route. Found it to be a little harder than anticipated. Keep aiming straight up from the initial seam. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 17, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| This is one pumpy little devil! Don't make the mistake I did trying to fiddle gear in at the roof. Just stand up a little higher and you can get in a bomber nut. Unfortunately, there are a few loose blocks in the crack up higher that you might want to pro behind.
Great climb. 10b, but pumpy for the grade IMO. |
By pointy
From: at large
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.10b
| I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b
| A very sustained route. Sneaky gear at the start (I got a wire in the crack to the right at the roof and them moved into the route) but it sounds like perhaps a bit higher would have been easier? |
By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Nov 15, 2012
| Great rock in a great winter spot. This route makes you try hard and is fulfilling!! |
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b
| Great climb on good rock. The bottom was a little pumpy with a great rest. It looked hard to pull the roof from the ground but it was actually not bad with nice finger locks. Crux came right after a huge jug with a move of tips crack to get higher. Pumpy, sustained 5.9 climbing with a two move 10.b crux. |
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