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Jeopardizing access to send a project

Original Post
Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

I'm curious as to folks' thoughts on knowingly breaking a state park rule and jeopardizing access for everyone just to send a project...especially after the same person has already been called out for it once or twice before. Am I the only one that thinks that's total douchebaggery? To me its arrogant egotistical selfishness just to chase a grade (which has since been downgraded by 1 or 2 V grades) and send a problem that local hardmen run laps on. Thoughts?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

What's the park rule?

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

Breaking into the park after hours to night climb...and hell yeah I'm biased after helping fight for access to this area for years.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

totally legit. we all need to sacrifice something sometimes. Think of it from the other climber's side, he may never send if you are only thinking about yourself and your own access. you are the one being selfish.

as a compromise you could go in and chip a few holds for him so he sends faster, and thus does not have to enter illegally anymore.

Forestvonsinkafinger · · Iowa · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,090

Agreed, access is a gift.

Was at Hueco a month ago and spotted people climbing illegally when I was with a park ranger...she and I both kept our mouths shut and likely thought the same thought:...do these guys really want this place shut down? Everyone there knows the rules like 'em or not.

Stonyman Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785
Brad Caldwell wrote:Breaking into the park after hours to night climb...and hell yeah I'm biased after helping fight for access to this area for years.
+me!
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Well of course it's douchebaggery, thus I sense a ulterior motive rather than wanting to know our our opinion. What else can you tell us about this scum?

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,012

Brad.....you're talking in tongues! If you really desire honest options give us the facts. Don't beat around the bush and candy coating things to get responses that support you stance.
*. Where is the problem?
*. What rule is being broken?
*. What's the history of the access issues?
*. What's your involvement with the outlaw?

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

OMFG! Night bouldering!

The end is nigh. He should be arrested and detained indefinitely for his crimes.

Who's the douchbag again? The dude that's out night bouldering or the people that made up a pointless and idiotic rule that you can't touch rock in the park after dark?

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265
Benjamin Chapman wrote:Brad.....you're talking in tongues! If you really desire honest options give us the facts. Don't beat around the bush and candy coating things to get responses that support you stance. *. Where is the problem? *. What rule is being broken? *. What's the history of the access issues? *. What's your involvement with the outlaw?
not going to get in to this and dont have facts but will offer some background.

Recently an area in NC was brought into the state park system, which means they now enforce entry and exit times. As a part of this there is development of a regional plan concerning all activities in the state park. During this time said person was bouldering after hours and it was detrimentally affecting the negotiations for maintaining current and potentially expanded access, something everyone wants. Thus Brad contacted this person to ask him to stop and remove publishing his "illegal" activities on various websites, not because he cares if someone is bouldering after hours, but because it was negatively affecting the perception of the climbing community at a critical time with the park planning commission.
Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

I don't have an opinion on this particular situation, but I will tell you that I know of numerous instances where climbers followed all the rules that the beauraucrats required for years, and they still got the shaft in the end. That will probably be the case here as well.

You could draw two opposing conclusions from this:

1. It doesn't matter how climbers behave, so go aheand and do whatever you can get away with.

2. All the more reason to be first-class users so the beauraucrats will be nice(r) to us.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Bouldering
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