Jensen's Jugs 5.10b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Randy Judycki & Derek Jensen, 1992 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Feb 15, 2006 |
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Description Start left of Grib Dat Hole. Runout, but easy climbing to the third bolt, just DON'T FALL (ground fall)! Crux is high and well-protected.
Protection 4 protection bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
| Comments on Jensen's Jugs |
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By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 24, 2007 rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Feels WAY hard for the grade to me--5.10+ in my book. |
By Joseph Stover From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 18, 2010 rating: 5.10d PG13
| I thought about protecting the move to the bolt above the cave by tying a sling around the bottom of the huge hole, but it might not have been that strong. Definitely harder than 10b. It is at least 10d. The open shuts up top have had alot of rock wear out from under them, but still seem mostly secure. The third bolt at the anchor is a good idea. |
By Michael Bartosek From: Los Angeles Aug 16, 2010 rating: 5.10b R
| Easy climbing to the 3rd bolt???? Cleary this is a height dependent statement. Even clipping the second bolt feels precarious and tricky with a certain decking event if you fall. I think next time I'll sling that hold as well, better than nothing, but really this route could use one bolt to prevent a groundfall. |
By Matt N From: Santa Barbara, CA Nov 24, 2010
| We also used the upper bolts for anchors as the hooks have a lost some rock around them and didn't sit well with us for TR'ing. |
By Richard Shore Jan 21, 2011 rating: 5.10+ PG13
| I used the natural thread with a 4' sling as pro before clipping that 3rd bolt. Clipping the 3rd bolt is not height dependent either - I am 6'3" and it is committing and scary, especially when you consider the near-groundfall potential. |
By Jan Roestel Apr 11, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c PG13
| The natural thread mentioned above has a crack completely down the leftside. The whole area around the hole seems to be more hollow and flexible than I previously remember. |
By Floyd Hayes Dec 27, 2011 rating: 5.10d PG13
| I couldn't find the first bolt (missing?), which wouldn't have been necessary (easy climbing), so I wound up clipping only three. I used a sling on the arch to protect the sketchy move to the bolt protecting the crux--I'm pretty sure it would have held a short fall. I'm 5'10" and was able to cruise through the crux, but my 5'7" and 5'3" companions couldn't reach the jug at the crux, so for them it was a 5.11. |
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