Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Jul 6, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jenga Butress Crack is the wide crack on the right...

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Description 

This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.

Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.

A 60-meter rope is mandatory.

Protection 

Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.