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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Jekyll and Hyde 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Jim Lundeen, 1996
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

The top of this route is a little run out, and the rock is sharp enough that a 20 foot fall wouldn't be fun.The crux is either after the 2nd bolt or the 3rd bolt, depending on how tall you are.

I would recomend that you avoid the temptation to go right on the flake after the 3rd bolt. Instead, keep going up, and you'll see the next bolt a little past a bulge.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Feb 19, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Jekyll and Hyde was a route I bolted with Jim Lundeen back in the days when people took gear to the cliff (1996). Finger sized aliens or TCUs take the R rating out of the grade. The original finish for this route and Rampage were to top out on the ledge via a finger crack (small TCU) where you will still find the old anchor, two fat Metolious rap hangers.
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route now has it's own cold shut anchor, making it MUCH better and less runout up high. You might want an optional finger sized piece of gear still. -Nah, just go for it. :-)
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 5, 2008

Nice going Jerry, this is a terrific route. Different feeling from the rest of the .10s at the crag in that it is more sparsely bolted. The moves are all there though, just clip that third bolt, head up over the bulge and go get it.