Jeep's Chimney climbs the most obvious feature on Lower Hawksbill - the large, acute, slightly left-facing dihedral. It's only a chimney because on how one climbs it - the crack in the back actually ranges from fingers to fists. The newest guidebook rates the pitch 10a; it certainly falls a bit more in the old school rating category.
Climb the corner using stems, jams, creativity, and a few thrutches to a double-bolt belay hidden in the chimney at the top. Don't be afraid, especially near the top of the pitch, to move out from the crack.
In the back of the large, left-facing corner on the right side of Lower Hawksbill. The rap anchors are totally hidden in the top of the chimney - just keep climbing up the chimney, you'll find them.
A double set of cams from fingers to fist and a set of stoppers.
Jeep's Chimney, July 2007.
|Comments on Jeep's Chimney
|By Bryan Hall|
From: Bend, Oregon
Nov 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
I wouldn't bring a double rack of cams for this. A single set is fine, maybe doubles of number 2-3 BD Camalots. It will take nuts in a lot of places so don't worry about having all those cams.
Oct 25, 2010
Not a true chimney . . . more like finger crack, off-with, hand jam stemming fiasco. Awesome route for a crack climber. You can place a ton of big gear if you have it. I place a 4.5 a 4 two 3's.
I just wonder how Jeep lead it on the first ascent, probably with a set of nuts tri-cams and hexes.