Follow the dihedral up to a bulge/roof (careful of some loose-looking rock.) Traverse right underneath the bulge and ascend a small corner (crux), then climb a long way on easy terrain to reach the anchors. The view from the top is great - once you're clipped into the anchors, pull up onto the "summit" and enjoy.
Scramble up the gully to the right of Barney Rubble about 15-20 feet, then walk right across the narrow ledge to reach the base of the route. There is a wide spot about halfway out the ledge where you can drop your packs and gear up.
12 bolts to chains. A 60m rope barely reaches - knot your rope before lowering or rappelling.
|By tim maloney|
Apr 2, 2008
Leo Henson and I toproped this rig long time back, should have been a couple of bolts on top. I remember this being a worthy route, glad you guys bolted it up.
|By Todd Savoy|
Jul 29, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Decent route and great for a warm up due to the easy ground following the crux. I would suggest hiding in the cave while pulling your rope off the anchors because of the large amount of choss on this route. A softball sized chunk nearly took my head off today.
|By -Jeremy Nelson|
Nov 14, 2010
Tim and Todd, Thanks for submitting the info on the route, we thought it was in the 10's but not sure exactly, good to see some consensus. It is best after the crux to a knee lock rest and reach up and clip the bolt. It is cruiser after that but still requires attention. Rob and I were glad to bolt it, lead it, while D Bloom was around the corner. A fun lead.
From: Tacoma, WA
Mar 20, 2013
Pretty weird crux which involves traversing under a slight overhang and gaining a ledge and then getting back left onto the overhang and up.
Optional bolts on the right would probably create a lot of rope drag and lessen the grade to 5.9.
Moderate climbers may have trouble following. Great hang out on top though!