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Jedi Mind Tricks 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ward Smith 3/98
Page Views: 1,715
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
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Jakob working the big sloper...

Description 

This route never gets the credit it deserves...
It is short and doesn't look inviting but the moves are fun and it has a great flow...

Start on the left and hand traverse right to a jug...Make the second clip and get ready for some awesome moves...I won't give play by play beta but you head up and right using crimps and big slopers... Careful making the 3rd clip its a bad place to hit the ground...A heel toe cam helps on this clip...As you top out a few kneebars are possible...clip the quick clips and run another lap on it ...You will want to....



Location 

Right in the middle of the cliff...Just right of Oby-won..


Protection 

3 bolts to a quickclip and a fixed biner...



Photos of Jedi Mind Tricks Slideshow Add Photo
jakob letting his feet swing free on the big jug...
jakob letting his feet swing free on the big jug.....
after making the third clip
after making the third clip
Comments on Jedi Mind Tricks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2011
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 2, 2007

I just climbed this route today and I think that it does get the credit it deserves. I'm not so sure if I'll get on it again. Plus, you have a number of classic routes of the same grade just a bit up the hill...

(In the interest of full disclosure, I did get slapped around a bit on this.)

By seth hamel
Aug 19, 2007

I've got to agree with Lee on this one. I thought the route was pretty cool even due to it's short length. The moves do flow pretty well, and it just seems to put your body where it should be. The route offers some variety in the style of moves and holds. Recomended.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 19, 2007

nice seth im glad you enjoyed it...

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jan 3, 2008

i really wanted to try this route but the fall looked a little too nasty....any beta on how to keep from being rock jerky?

By Maurice Liddy
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 4, 2008

Rock jerky? Its not too bad at all. If i remember correctly you can reach the first clip from the boulder. An attentive belayer or a stick clipped second bolt will sort that out, but the clipping stance for the second bolt was good too. Ive worked the route a lot and grew to love it (eventually) I never sent, but I thought it was an awesome little route, not sketchy fall potential and worth trying.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 4, 2008

I stick clip the first 2 bolts cause the first one is right there and the second is still not too high... anyway the third bolt could be bad if you blew it so i do a toe hook or heel toe camish move with my left foot and get my right hand on the big shitty sloper up and right.... at that point you are locked in to make the clip and you just have a few more hard moves to the top... a nice kneebar at the end if you want it...

i really like the moves on this route...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 19, 2009



a little beta footage for those who want it... i do things a little different than this chap but it give you ideas...

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Nov 19, 2009

WTF is with the slo-mo?

By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Its intended to be a beta video- slow motion gives you time to analyze the movements, holds, and body positions more accurately.

By twellman
Feb 20, 2010

So many times have I walked by this and said to myself, some day......

Well some day was today, and it should have been sooner! If you like bouldery, tricky strenuous climbing, this is an awesome climb. And definitely safely bolted. Easy stick clip on first (and second if you want it, though you clip this from a jug). Third clip is tricky but with a good belayer you should be fine.

Clipping the anchors would give some bad rope drag, so I jumped and then lowered off the biner on the third bolt.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 31, 2010

Apparently the youtube poster removed the video but uploaded a new, better rendition. He ditched the slow-mo from the original video.

www.youtube.com/v/I9T-8Pgf4C0&hd=1

Strong, fun moves that make sense when you do them. I have always looked up at this route while roping up for its easier neighbors. It's amazing how it all just works. :)

By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Jun 22, 2010

Sent this yesterday after a long battle... I'd tried it a year ago, when I hadn't done any 12's before. This was my 4th day on over the past year, and it went down 2nd go of the day.

I thought the route was really awkward at first, and I never worked the top enough to find any good beta (just grovelled around on redpoint). But the moves to the lip (the big jug-pinch) I got dialed, and I think it flows pretty well.

I stick-clipped the second bolt, which makes the fall better, but impedes the deadpoint to the massive first jug a bit. For the third bolt I have a RH on the top-right corner of the big block, and a left heel wedged over the massive jug - makes clipping super-casual (got the beta from a super-strong friend who flashed it). The fall from above the third bolt is safe.

In conclusion, I think with the right beta, it flows well, is powerful, has good-quality rock and great holds, and overall is a really good route. With bad beta it is super-awkward, off-balance, and weird.

Didn't see that kneebar at the end, Lee - perhaps you can message me?

I've heard there's kneebar beta for the middle - to clip the second bolt, but I just used a double heel-toe cam to rest off the big jug.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2010

just posted a vid of my good friend jeff to the description, check him out!

By Eric8
From: Framingham
Jun 6, 2011

Curious if anyone has a way of doing this with out both feet coming off at the lip?