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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Link-Up: Sixish to roof of Drunkard's Delight T 
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Jean 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Art Gran, Phil Jacobus, and John Hudson 1960. FFA: Dick Williams 1964
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Pulling the roof.

Description 

A classic roof problem that serves as a great introduction to harder roofs.

P1: Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. Head up the main left-facing corner to the roof. Pull over this (crux) to arrive at the fixed rap anchor.

There is a second and third pitch but most rap here.


Location 

On a face 40 feet right of Maria and 15 feet right of Sixish, below left side of the obvious roof.


Protection 

Standard rack, microcams or slider nuts may be helpful.



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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Worthwhile, quite strenuous. Largely ignored. I did this with a friend who weighed almost 200 lbs. He couldn't do the roof and I lowered him with my head braced against a tree, on a waist belay, shirtless. Nice slow rope burn.

By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Mar 24, 2011

first pitch is nice; thoughtful 5.7 or so to the roof. make sure your gear under the roof is solid as the moves over the roof are committing. reminds me a bit of the roof on Birdcage.

By IJMayer
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 4, 2011

I just tried this tonight in the dark and took the whipper! The roof is reachy for me at 5'5", but I probably missed a foothold..

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Interesting climb, worth doing. It's a strenous roof, good intro to harder roof climbs at the Gunks.