|c. Frog's Head - the Arch
A classic roof problem that serves as a great introduction to harder roofs.
P1: Climb the small left-facing corner to a small stance. Surf right then back left through a deceptive little sequence. Head up the main left-facing corner to the roof. Pull over this (crux) to arrive at the fixed rap anchor.
There is a second and third pitch but most rap here.
On a face 40 feet right of Maria and 15 feet right of Sixish, below left side of the obvious roof.
Standard rack, microcams or slider nuts may be helpful.
Feb 19, 2008
Worthwhile, quite strenuous. Largely ignored. I did this with a friend who weighed almost 200 lbs. He couldn't do the roof and I lowered him with my head braced against a tree, on a waist belay, shirtless. Nice slow rope burn.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Mar 24, 2011
first pitch is nice; thoughtful 5.7 or so to the roof. make sure your gear under the roof is solid as the moves over the roof are committing. reminds me a bit of the roof on Birdcage.
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 4, 2011
I just tried this tonight in the dark and took the whipper! The roof is reachy for me at 5'5", but I probably missed a foothold..
From: New York, NY
Jun 23, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Interesting climb, worth doing. It's a strenous roof, good intro to harder roof climbs at the Gunks.