Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This excellent sport(y) climb lies between Flakes and C'Est la Vie. It actually takes the same line as C'Est la Morte for the first 50 feet and then breaks left and follows a beautiful face and arete up a blank face to a two bolt anchor. To gain the arete one must make strenous and delicate eldo face moves at 12b. Clipping the fourth bolt comes at the crux 12b/c. Rossiter gives this route and s I think for the run-out from the last bolt to the top. It was a little run-out but after the 12b/c delicate face you just moved through, the rest of the 10d on solid flakes feels great.
The protection on this route consists of 4 QDs and possibly a #2 Cam for the slab up to the face.
This is a perfect example of just how funky and awesome Eldo can be. This route is all over the place and so much fun to climb. There is chalk on it on, and it needs to be done more often. Check it out.