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 ADVANCED
Riptide Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Lectric Granny T 
Astroprojection T,S,TR 
Crosscurrent S,TR 
Dirty Rotten Horror T,TR 
Edge of the Sea T 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Jazz the Glass S 
Riptide T,S 
Where There's a Drill, There's a Way S 

Jazz the Glass 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Edwards
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 747
Submitted By: steve edwards on Nov 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Beginning the crux sequence of Jazz the Glass

Description 

Follow four bolts up the steep side of the obvious arete. While close to both the corner and the slabby side of the arete it's an entirely different proposition that's both powerful and devious. For full value, finish on the final three bolts of Astroprojection. You might want a couple pieces of gear to clip the first bolt, as well as a few more if you don't choose the slab (better) finish.


Protection 

Four bolts, plus optional gear.


Location 

Arete by Astroprojection.



Photos of Jazz the Glass Slideshow Add Photo
The last steep bit of Jazz the Glass before moving left into the crack and then joining Astroprojection.
The last steep bit of Jazz the Glass before moving...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2013
By zoso
Nov 27, 2012

So, this seems obvious, but can't you get good gear in Dirty Rotten Horror to the left while climbing this?

I'm thinking of a word that starts with "S" and rhymes with "Jeez".

By user id
Nov 27, 2012

Splease? Shes? Sneeze? Sgoodlordareyouseri-eeze? . . . SQUEEZE!

Got it!

Sure seems like one? Can't say til I try it? But considering you use 3/4 of that arete's face to climb DRH, I'm going to go with Total Squeeze Job.

Argument: Don't clip the bolts.
Answer: Don't bolt a gear protected squeeze job.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 28, 2012

Agreed, it's a total squeeze, but the bolts force you to stay on the arete (or face a strange fall at best) so the climbing is completely different from DRH (and much better IMO). And, I mean, it's not like this is unique for the area. Astroprojection off routes holds, and entire arete of em, that are inches from holds you use. Didn't make up the rules. Just playin' by 'em while trying to get the most out of a limited crag.

By user id
Nov 28, 2012

I see what you're trying to say Steve, but if you can clip your bolts while climbing Dirty Rotten Horror...thats fuk'd up.

Eliminations are one thing, but poaching an established trad line is another. It robs from the experience and takes a giant,
disrespectful shit on the prior FA.

Again, I really can' say b/c I'm not standing there, but if this is the case, even for the often ignored Parley's, its just wrong.
DRH is a proud lead for the few who dare.

I digress, until I can climb these myself and speak from experience.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 28, 2012

Parley's isn't a limited crag, I'd say the real estate is pretty well used at this point. Maybe it's time to accept the crag is climbed out. Or maybe it's time to venture left of 'Lectric Granny. There's also a really thin gear line between EOTS and Cross Current that would be way more obvious than this shit. There's potential to the right of the Iron Curtain too...

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 28, 2012

Here's how this went down.

Group was climbing DRH and I asked them about the arete. They tried to climb it but bailed because it was "scary" to stay on the arete (they were TR'ing). So I climbed it and, yes, you do face a strange fall off of moves that are tricky to sort out but the moves but it was really fun. Anyway, we talked about how if you bolted it to force you onto the arete it would be cool addition but weren't into it at the time.

This year I was looking to do a 5.12 challenge and couldn't remember how hard it was so looked at it again. It wasn't hard enough but I liked it, especially linking into Astro. But since at the top of Astro you literally have to purposefully avoid the arete, making that local "classic" very much an eliminate, it didn't seem like a stretch to add/force some steep climbing to the cliff as a public service.

And while I was aware that it minimizes the death factor of both DRH and EOTS because, if you really thought you were going to zipper your pro you might be able to bail out safely, you would never actually clip the bolts on a successful ascent because they're out of your way and would create a much worse fall than the natural gear.

Given the crag, the position, and the fact DRH is a no-star route it seemed acceptable to me but if the community doesn't agree I'm happy to remove the bolts and leave it a TR. Give it a shot and weigh in.

By Daniel Winder
Nov 30, 2012

Steve, I went to climb Dirty Rotten Horror the other night and noticed Jazz's bolts. You asked for feedback so I'll share my thoughts.

The first half of DRH is climbed to access the bolts, where you are supposed to get on the arete is unclear. All of Jazz's bolts can easily be clipped from DRH. The lower bolts would be in an awkward position to protect but the last bolt is right at a protectable stance on DRH. As seen in your photo, the 2 routes definately share holds. You compare Jazz to Astroprojection. While it's true that both are eliminates, Astro's bolts can't be clipped from an established trad line. I think this is the critical issue. I understand what you were trying to do, but that arete is only 4 feet away dude. 10 feet and it would be worthy; as it is, it's a squeeze.

Calling DRH a no-star route doesn't justify bolting it IMO. The fact is, DRH is NOT a no-star route. It has excellent climbing unique for Parley's and is somewhat bold. Fear of the gear is a major factor in a lead of DRH and the bolts rob that experience.

The close spacing of the bolts is out of character with the rest of the crag. Some of the bolts on Jazz are 3 feet apart. There are 2 new anchor bolts above Astro's anchor. Why? It looks sloppy. If Astro's anchors were worn, they should have been replaced.

Speaking of replacing, there are many aging bolts at the crag that could use an upgrade. Replacing some of the old spinners would have been a better community service. If you were looking for a project to bolt, Wasatch quartzite has many contrived aretes similar to this one that don't climb on existing routes.

I'm not personally attacking you Steve, I don't know you. I don't put up routes and don't have any stake in territory battles or bolt wars. However, Parley's truly is a diamond in the rough with easy SLC access, a range of grades, and anti-classic scenery. I vote for erasure of the bolts.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Dec 1, 2012

That's good feedback. The no star comment refers to the Ruckman guide. Do you really think clipping the last bolt detracts from DRH? By the time you're standing there it's, like, 5.6 or 7 to the anchors, tops. The only way you'd fall during the next section is if one of those blocks ripped off the wall (and then you might appreciate protection away from the natural line as it could keep your rope from being chopped. However, if you thought you might fall in that section you could place something above your head in the crack, which would be better protection for the 'hard" moves. If I were doing the DRH finish (as opposed to AP) I'd probably opt to put in a piece and unclip the bolt, or at least extend it due to drag. It's there to keep you on the arete for a few more hard moves. I could/may remove it but you'd then naturally move into the corner earlier and the climbing would be easier. As for where the route goes, it's right on the arete. Your right hand is pinching the edge almost every move, feet occasionally toe hooking to keep you on. I'm telling you, TR or on lead, the movement is great. The only thing wrong with TR is that the natural inclination is to bail off of the hard moves.

Btw, those "new" anchors aren't very new and weren't placed by me. But, yes, the crag needs retroing on many routes and the old anchors are rusty enough that I would not trust them unless I had no other option and I will probably beef up the newer set and removed the old ones eventually. I've been replacing a lot of anchors in similar condition in the Wasatch lately. I use stainless and paint al of mine with rust-proof paint so, hopefully, they'll be less unsightly and last longer.

By mikewhite
Dec 1, 2012

Quote
but if the community doesn't agree I'm happy to remove the bolts and leave it a TR

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Dec 12, 2012

I'm thinking of removing the bolts and cleaning the holes so that RB's can be placed. This will keep you on the arete, as well as adding a little trad spice if you like placing those things on lead (but would also make a convenient TR with one). Downside is not many folks own them so if anyone's curious and thinks the bolts should be left, which a few people have said to me offline, please give 'er a go and state your case. I'll wait until it warms up to change things, as it's not a particularly nice place to be in the winter (or anytime according to many). Again, the issue I have with making this a pure "rules" lead is by only protecting the crack it's very hard to stay committed to bleak aretes holds when a couple steps left is a no hands rest. It seems like forcing Grit rules on a place with other ethics, therefore strange. Squeeze, yeah, but I feel it's an artistic line, It's also a 15 minute run from my house so I'm a bit more motivated to get the most out of the real estate.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 12, 2012

Quote "Squeeze, yeah, but I feel it's an artistic line, It's also a 15 minute run from my house so I'm a bit more motivated to get the most out of the real estate. "

LAME!!! Boissal said it best, "Maybe it's time to accept the crag is climbed out."

Steve- Pull the crap or someone else will. Your squeeze job is BS and pointless you tacky grid bolter.

P.S. Artistic line?!? You have got to be kidding I hope...

By nooky brown
Dec 12, 2012

I think it should stay because its new, I only live 20 mins away and I have done everything else nearby.
Sure its a squeeze and if it was 5 feet from the Coffin then right on but its a road cut. How often does Astro and DRH get done anyway?
Like to hear what Brian Smoot has to say as its his routes nearby.
I vote let him have the final word.

Steve, find something thats at least 20 mins from your house and don't report it you tacky grid bolter!:-)

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 13, 2012

Yeah I guess I should just go bolt everything with-in 20mins of my house as well. I'm an artist of the rocks anyways, and I'm sure you'll find my grid bolted choss lines artistic!!! Plus hey, as long as it is convenient for me, then it's surely art for the rest of you. Sweet! There is so much rock with-in 20mins of my house too. It's to bad not everyone has the same mentality about route development as you guys. SLC would have the most routes in the country...Maybe world...

DONGS!! My guess is if Parley's is that close, then so is your local climbing gym. And gyms are for your convenience peps.

I hope Brian agrees...

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 1, 2013

Squeeze job. Not that great anyway.

By alex reb.
Jun 24, 2013

yes very tight squeeze, yes looks fun, but most def. takes away from DRH.