A west facing cliff band at the top of a talus slope with a handful of short routes. The climbing is generally vertical, sustained and technical in nature. Small jugs, edges, vertical seams and crimpers abound.
The rock quality is good with both sport and trad routes at this cliff. Most routes are around 30-40 feet with fixed anchors at the top.
On the Mirror Lake Highway park at mile marker 20, that also has a blue sign. There is room for maybe 3 cars there. About 100 yards before mile marker 20 is another parking area that is a little bigger.
If you looked uphill and straight east from the parking lot you can barely manage to pick the cliffband hidden behind the aspens.
Follow the small path to the east toward the Provo River. When you get to the edge of the river gorge, go left and and follow the edge until you can find a way down. Cross the river and work your way back up to the plateau on the east side of the river.
The Uinta Rock guide approach goes much farther north before you cross the river and describes a 300 yard back track on the east side of the river. However, when we crossed it was low water conditions and were able to cross the river almost immediately and worked our way up to the talus slope without backtracking the 300 yards.
There is a cairn on the plateau on the east side of the river that is the key to finding the right approach up the talus slope. Once you find the cairn, head uphill to the east.
Technical and sustained, this is one of the better routes on the wall. Without big jugs or rests, this route is fingery and pumpy. The crux is actually clipping the chains.Start to the left of the first bolt. Traverse right at the 2nd bolt and head straight up. Your footwork needs to be dialed toward the top of the route, as the footholds get small....[more]Browse More Classics in UT