||Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: ||WI5 [details]|
|FA: ||Bradley White, Tom Bowker, 1987|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||453|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Jul 24, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Jaws is midway on the ledge. It is the free standi...
Climb up W3 ice 20ft. and put in some strong protection as high up as you can and long sling it. Step down until you can mount left onto the wide free standing pillar. Climb vertically diagonal up and left until you run out of ice equal height to the two screws. Screw curtain and move left. Again go up and protect yourself under the ceiling before exiting left. Dry point exit onto flat belay ledge. Dry pointing when I ice climbed wasn't a terminology and it included creative aid. It's straight forward ice climbing until there is no more ice. Last of the ice is fragile and aid was used to place the pin. There are no cramped inclining ceiling moves on this dry pointing across, just vertical traversing on ice, That's not easy. Rarely in thick enough to climb.
It was the pinnacle of my experience at leading ice. Aid was used in placing the medium large Tri-cam high, beyond any tool placement and then the pin I used to safeguard and weighted, before I mantled off the climb. The practical joke was on me, the pin came out in Tom's hands seconding. If he had a problem with this climb, it was afternoon sunlight in his eyes. It is better to do this one in the morning.
Furthest right side of Orange Crush wall, adjacent to a ramp on the right.
Ice screws, trad gear especially useful to me was the large Tri-cam I put into the ceiling before exiting the climb. Don't forget some long slings. There is a fist crack here that is climbable to the top of cliff. We rappelled off of stoppers.
The curtain was giant when I led it. This is my be...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 6, 2013
Is this between the rock climbs Captain Hook and Purple Microdot?
By bradley white
Jan 27, 2013
Yes, and it goes further left to finish past Fish Hooks (according to Ward's guidebook map and route descriptions).
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Apr 2, 2013
A really impressive FA and IMHO one of Rumneys hardest ice climbs.