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Jaws
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Dave Baker, Rich Thompson |
Page Views: | 5,017 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Chris Prewitt on Jun 29, 2008 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
While this route only checks in at a mere 5.8, you'll find it to be a worthy outing if you enjoy clean wide cracks. The grade doesn't reflect the nature of the climbing - it feels BIG in every sense of the word.
Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).
The first 1/3 is typical OW with some good feet, then the feet go away. Get in and grunt or LB the nice edge gunning for a melon-sized chockstone 10' up. Past the chockstone the crack is wide enough to get inside, eventually becoming a "comfortable" squeeze chimney. You'll now be inside the chim for the remainder. There is pro in there, too. Top out and belay from boulders and bushes on the col. To walk/climb off go to climbers' left, stepping down right and around to gain a short low angle handcrack then up slab to the ridgetop and a small plaque. Hopefully you left your packs on the main ridge that you can now see.
Belay on a good ledge at the base of the offwidth which is about 70' off the deck (gear: chockstone, two .75's which may be tricky to find, and/or #5 Friend.) There are two ways to get to this point: either climb directly up (5.11), or traverse in from the left (5.7+).
The first 1/3 is typical OW with some good feet, then the feet go away. Get in and grunt or LB the nice edge gunning for a melon-sized chockstone 10' up. Past the chockstone the crack is wide enough to get inside, eventually becoming a "comfortable" squeeze chimney. You'll now be inside the chim for the remainder. There is pro in there, too. Top out and belay from boulders and bushes on the col. To walk/climb off go to climbers' left, stepping down right and around to gain a short low angle handcrack then up slab to the ridgetop and a small plaque. Hopefully you left your packs on the main ridge that you can now see.
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