I would love to have someone who has been on it describe it, but till then I need somewhere to put some photos of the route.
Basically the route used to be 5.14b then 2 key holds broke off, one off of each crux. Now there are two very had cruxes, the lower one being harder from what I hear and the upper one being a dyno/deadpoint.
Very steep climbing on some very small holds that are sometimes very far apart.
Left of the China Beach on the big kids wall, left side of Wiamea.
According to Vasya, its a V12/13 boulder problem to tiny right hand pinch, followed by a v6 "rest." After the rest, huck a massive v10/11 deadpoint and then finish up with the top iron cross move on China beach and then mop up the rest of the 5.12 outro.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 28, 2010
thanks otey, i thought thats what he had said but wanted to play it safe...
"2nd asc. spent a few days on it a couple years ago and did it 3rd day this year. Hard route to grade and very specialized.
The breakdown is a 2 move 8A+ for the first crux followed by a mini 12d into a 7C+ lurp dyno move. both cruxes involve around one low percentage move each. the outro section is around 8a. At first I thought 9a but after falling off the 2nd crux twice and having to fight in good conditions, I thought this could be harder. Psyched route season begins."
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jul 24, 2011
Damn, he has gotten strong. Rumney is all climbed out for him now. Poor guy is going to have to climb up Jaws, traverse China Glide and back down Livin Astro for a challenge..or maybe refree Mr. Gerbick or learn how to stick to Bill Clinton's belly. (..or continue pushing the grade of barefoot Rumney climbing. 13a is the hardest so far that I know of.)
Darn, I saw him in the Parking Lot at 6.30p today and did not congratulate him. I did not know he had just sent Jaws II. Big props to Mike. I have always liked him; such a great 'kid' (I can say that because I am old). No worries, Mike could always stay out West next summer and show the locals at Rifle a thing or two. Or he could come back and free BIll Clinton. My guess is Zebby won't mind.