Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tatooine
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Force, The S 
Hyperspace S 
Jawa Jam S 
Leia Needs A Lightsaber S 
Leia's Leash S 
Midichlorophobia S 
Millennium Falcon S 
Phantom Menace, The S 
Scum and Villainy S 
Spaceballs S 
Star Destroyer S 
That's Not A Lightsaber S 
This Is A Lightsaber! S 
Triumphal Arch S 

Jawa Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard 13 Apr 09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,013
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Blanchard bolting Jawa. A very long route and a ve...

Description 


70m rope required.

A long, moderate, bolted line whose character changes several times as the route ascends through varying limestone bands. Fun, occasionally tricky movement with an intimidating-looking section through the right edge of a double-roof area.

Start by climbing to the left of a short, semi-detached "pillar". Follow the initially-rightward-trending bolt line through steep, rough limestone on small edges to a ledge. From the ledge ascend along the right of a groove to the base of a somewhat overhanging section to the right of a large roof system.

Surmount the steepness and follow the natural weakness to the left and upward to the chains.

Location 

Climbs through a natural weakness to the right of the large, double-roof area near the right side of Tattoine. The start is found to the left of a short (seven-foot or so) "pillar".

Follow the trail through the Galaxy Area to approximately the middle of Tattoine, then backtrack south and up to the base of the wall.

Protection 

16 bolts, hangers-and-chains anchor.

70m rope required.


Photos of Jawa Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Just getting into the roofs
Just getting into the roofs
Perin bolting.
Perin bolting.
Spencer reaches the first ledge. A really good res...
Spencer reaches the first ledge. A really good res...
At this spot the route starts to feel long and the...
At this spot the route starts to feel long and the...
Fwew! How much further?
Fwew! How much further?
Here is a view of the virtually endless Jawa Jam l...
BETA PHOTO: Here is a view of the virtually endless Jawa Jam l...

Comments on Jawa Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2012
By Darren Knezek
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very exciting for a 5.9 with killer exposure and a steep section that's a blast followed by a strange but fun corner ending. About as good as this grade gets in RC.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 22, 2009

Really enjoyed this one. The cruxes are quick and there are plenty of rests. The upper part looks intimidating but there are lots of good jugs/rails. So if you are just below the roofs and they are overwhelming you...just go for it and you will be pleasantly surprised.

  • **Keep an eye on the end of your rope when lowering!
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Apr 26, 2009

Amazing climb! Coming out from the corner onto the exposed face is nerve-wracking move. I left a draw up there and went to get it 2 days later but it was gone. Has anyone grabbed a Cypher draw recently?
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
May 9, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A long fun climb start to finish. Well protected route on quality, textured limestone. Worth the hike by itself. Other great routes in the area make this area a fine climbing area.
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Aug 17, 2009

Climbed this on Saturday right before the storm rolled in. The really small but critical left foothold when going through the roof at the last bolt broke when I stepped on it. Guess I need to shed a few pounds.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Sep 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun route. I would recommend using a 70m rope, but if you really want to do it with a 60m rope, I can testify that it is doable. Just make sure you tie a not in the end of your rope. To get the climber all the way down, he will have to clean his draws on the way down so that the rope travels a straight line. That will barely put him on the ground. (also, that exposed foothold is still there... maybe just smaller than before)
By Lynn Stephens
From: Orem, Utah
Sep 5, 2009

I climbed this today just before Jon. Lots of fun. Love that exposed move through the roof ledges. That foothold is about 3/4 inch deep and 3 inches long, so pretty small for such an exposed move, which makes it all the more fun! This is my idea of fun rock climbing.
By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 3, 2009

This climb is long! It has a lot of variety with stemming, booking, facing and lunging. Nice work Perin on bolt placements, cleaning and imagining. Clap clap clap!
By Blanco
From: Tucson, AZ
May 16, 2011

Outstanding route! When you come out of the corner at the top moving onto the exposed face this is what makes climbing fun. Make sure to bring plenty of draws cause this route seems to eat them up pretty quick.
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I see John Bitter did this with his 60m rope. It looks a lot taller than a few others I've done that really stretched my 60m.

I'm wondering, is it possible to do this in 2 pitches, by going to the first set of anchors for Scum and Villainy, and then to the top? Or, maybe going all the way to the top, then lowering to those anchors, pulling the rope, then lowering the rest of the way? From the topo picture it looks like this is possible, but I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this. I don't want to get in over my head. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a 70m already....
By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Got a 70 m. It was worth it to do these tall climbs at Tatooine!

The first two bolts of this climb are 2-3 feet apart, and some others are pretty close. I wasn't sure about the bolt count (it really is 16 though), so I thought I would have to skimp in order for my 15 to make it. I ended up using 12, plus something for the anchors. I was able to back clean a few draws (since a lot of them were really close), and skip a couple too. This helped reduce what rope drag might be on this climb.

I skipped the first one, back cleaned #2, skipped #8, back cleaned #11 and #13 to reduce drag. Even with the couple skipped bolts I felt very well protected up the whole climb.

Kudos to this entire area, the developers, and the trail groomers: great, fun routes, with killer exposure!
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Jan 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I had a bit of a hard time finding the start of the route, so I added a photo that shows the whole line from the bottom.
By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The best 5.9 in the canyon, I don't think I stopped smiling.