Javelina Hardman 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Geir, Marcy, and Doso |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Geir on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Geir on the FA of Javelina Hardman
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Description Start by stemming up to a bolt approx 15' up. Clip it and figure out a tricky move to establish yourself on the face (5.10+). Head straight up toward the bulge placing gear and clipping a bolt. Pull the bulge and continue to the anchor.
With its great rock and climbing this route would easily earn three stars in LDE except that it doesn't top out on one of the large towers and it is relatively short. Still, it's great fun and a solid challenge for a well-rounded climber.
Location This climb lies in the "back alley" found by walking up into the alley and turning right. Look for a bolt on the left wall about 15' up.
Protection Singles to #2 Camalot, 3 bolts.
Eric Ruljancich becomes a Javelina Hardman
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Eric Ruljancich reaches one of the few buckets on ...
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It's good to color coordinate your helmet and clot...
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One of the few buckets on Javelina Hardman
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Marcy on her redpoint of Javalina Hardman - her ha...
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| Comments on Javelina Hardman |
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 15, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| A really cool route! If only it were longer and had nice summit to top out on. The base of the route is completely shaded...good for a warm day when your belayer is seeking refuge from the sun. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
| congrats to eric ruljancich for the first onsight of this tricky route on 3/28! |
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| Yes, yes...congrats indeed to Canada Eric!!! Nice work :) |
By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010
| Really fun climbing up a nifty crack to a steep finish on bolts.
No harder than 10c if you don't stuff a cam in the finger lock.
I feel fortunte to have got up it without the benefit of a colorful helmet. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 23, 2010
| CONGRATS to Marcy for her redpoint of Javalina Hardman today!! Her hardest redpoint yet! |
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| Geir had a huge part in my success. He was incredibly encouraging and patient while I worked on it and maybe even more excited than me when I got clean. Also, much thanks to David for the photos!
After watching others at the crux, I feel like the difficulty is a strong function of reach. If unable to reach the finger crack before stepping across, a balancy intermediate move involving a very small dish and a so-so crimp awaits you. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 25, 2010
| i have to agree. with my stubby short -38 ape index t. rex arms i just can't reach that finger crack, so i have to use the crimp and dish. for me the crux feels like 11-. in any case you've got a bomber cam protecting you so go up there and have a blast. it's a fun route! |
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