Javalina  V8

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Type:  Boulder, 25 feet Consensus:  V8 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  LeeAB on Mar 4, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Sweet traverse on jugs, would be worthy of 4 stars if dabbing halfway through was not an issue.

Head right from the low jugs near the middle of the wall.start out traversing more or less along the lip at one point using a hold under the lip. Eventually move up into a good left hand sidepull half pocket and make a long reach out right to an undercling, match your left foot to hand as either a toe or heal toe and drop your left down to a good seem. Now for the anti dab first crux, release the foot and swing onto the hand holds with a smear for your right foot. The rest of the problem is tough enduro climbing, big moves on bigish holds. Bump your left further along the seam and make a long move out right to the left end of another seam with a flat hold that sort of tilts toward you. Get a right heal hook and match up to make another long move right to a better hold. Some consider this the end of the problem but for full credit top it out, the climbing is easier but not neseccarily a gimmie, I've seen someone pitch from above here.

Location 

Standing in the clearing between the Maze and main spur, there is a large wave like boulder to your right with next to no holds up high but loads of holds down low. Start at low holds near the middle of the face where the boulder is undercut in a horizontal roof and climb right to the arete and up.

Protection 

Pads and spotter.